KAUAI (Cont,)

Kauai is surb-titled the “Garden Island”- and rightly so. It’s floal beauty is spectacular. I felt like I was in a spiritual paradise - far removed from reality. This is the oldest of the main Hawaiian Islands. Kauai has an area of 550 square miles, the fourth largest of the main islands. Lihue (County seat) is about 100 miles northwest of Honolulu, on Oahu.
When we first arrived in Honolulu on January 15, 1958, the economy was ranked as follows in importance:

(1) - Sugar
(2) - Pineapple
(3) - Government
(4) - Tourism.
Today, there is no longer any sugar or pineapple grown on the Island, (I heard that marijuana is now the number one cash crop!) Tourism leads the economy, followed by Government. This is why the Hawaiian economy has taken such a beating during the current recession.
Lihue is the County seat, and yet Kapaa at 10,000 population, is twice as large! The 2000 census counted about 58,000 people. This
This figure was updated to 68,000 in 2008. It will be interesting what the Census Bureau comes up with in the current 2010 census. When we moved to Kauai in 1958, the population on Kauai was estimated to be 18,000 (1,000 Caucasians!) Kauai, and the small island of Niihau, (now owned by the Robinson family), were the last Hawaiian Islands to join King Kamehameha’s Kingdom of Hawaii in 1810.
There are thousands of chickens roaming everywhere on the Island. They look like Rhode Island Reds to me. The chicken should be the State Bird, rather than the Nene! The original Polynesian settlers brought them as a food source. Hurricane Iniki didn’t help things, when it destroyed many of their coops. I can’t help but wonder what happens to all of the hens’ eggs? The chickens are not bashful. Wherever people are gathered - be it the beach or park - the chickens are there.
are 24 Long’s stores in the Islands, which were not included in the CVS purchase of Longs on the mainland. Cvs plans to eventually acquire these 24.
Our accommodations are great. We are on the second of four levels, and have partial ocean views, and look down on the pool area. Our condo is as high as you can build on Kauai. The County building code limits buildings to a height of a palm tree (about 40 feet.) There are two bedrooms with queen size beds. Each bedroom has a private tub and bathroom. Off the kitchen, there is another half bath and a shower. There is also a washer and drier, adjacent to the k
It was quite a wait before Joan and Mary picked up our Hertz rental car. They said that the Hertz lady was promoting a lot of “extras”. Our car is a Toyota Camry. We need a full-size car for a trunk that is large enough to hold all of our luggage.
A short drive from the airport in Lihue up #56, the Kuhio Highway, to Kapaa, and our Outrigger condo at Waipouli Beach. Our unit wasn’t ready when we checked in, and the girls went across the highway and shopped at Safeway. (They were shocked by the high food prices. They reflect the 25-30% cost of shipping the goods). There is also a Long’s Drug store in the complex. There itchen. The large “great room’ is very spacious and “open”. It includes a very nice full kitchen, a dining area, and a living room. Off each bedroom, and the living room, there are nice lanai’s with an ocean view. Flat TV’s (Wednesday), we ate out at a nearby restaurant on the beach.
Thursday morning, and we are off to Kalaheo and Kaumakani to visit the two houses he used to live in. It won’t belong before each time we start out, we will harmonize “On the Road Again!” Our first stop was at our Kalaheo house where we lived from January 1960 to June 1962. Sue was born while we lived here, I never knew the address because there was no mail delivery are mounted on the walls of both bedrooms and the great room.
Tonight, back then. We picked up our mail at a “box” in the post office. Today, I notice that it is 5222 Puwai. I recognized the house, and we pulled up in front. The resident, Lawrence Vindinha, Sr. came out on his porch checking us out (slow day).
We took a few pictures, and then introduced ourselves. We explained why we were browsing around. He said that his son was out back mowing (the sharp -wide leaved- buffalo grass) It wasn’t long before his son appeared. His father introduced him, as “Larry.” During our conversation, Larry said that he would be 60 on his next birthday. The father said that his wife had died a couple of years ago, and Larry was living with him. I was disappointed that he didn’t invite us to see the inside of the house.
We bought “5222” in 1960 for $14,000. Marie couldn’t cope with the very red dirt at Kaumakani. She suggested that we move. We found this house in Kalaheo we both liked. It was about 1000 feet up, mauka from the highway. So, it was cooler than Kaumakani, and of course much wetter. Even though we were only a 20 minute drive apart. I didn’t have a rain gauge back then. But I would guess that we probably got 100 inches of rain a year, compared to the 20 inches at Kaumakani! (We had to irrigate the sugar cane). At Kalaheo, we were only a few miles from Mt. Waialeale - “the wettest spot on earth” - where the rainfall averages 440 inches of rain a year. As I remember, it seemed to rain mostly at night. I would have mold on the soles of my dress shoes! Now, that is “damp”!
While talking to the two Vindinhas, I couldn’t help but notice the light green metal roof on the house. It looked exactly the same as it did in 1962, when I had last seen it. I mentioned that the roof has surely held up well (after nearly 50 years!) Lawrence. Sr. said he told his son Larry, that they should get a new roof. But, he said, “Each time, Larry says that he is waiting for the Permit!”.
We drove back in the “woods”, where no road existed 50 years ago. Now, there are beautiful homes back in there. There used to be just a foot path that went in there. Mary wanted to check out the spot where she, Anne and the Friedlanders used to look for “ treasures”. I had never had heard Mary mention this before. Apparently, people would illegally drop off their junk back there. She also wanted to explore the “meadow” where horses used to graze. These memories were quit emotional for her, as I am sure they were to Anne, too the first time she re-visited those areas.
From Kalaheo, we headed for Hanapepe for lunch. I suggested that we eat at Mike’s Café. Marie and I ,and the family used to go there quite often Not only was their Chinese food. It was always fresh and, along with their tasty rice, was very good. Too, we liked Florence who served us. She was very good with serving the girls, plus she baked Mike’s delicious lilikoi pies. Occasionally, we would meet friends there for lunch or dinner. A memorable occasion was the day we had a Reception there following Sue’s Baptism at Holy Cross Church in Kalaheo, during December of 1961. Much to my disappointment, Mike’s restaurant was no longer in business, but it was still Wong’s Chinese Restaurant. I asked people who were having lunch( apparently, they were the owners, or their employees,) about Mike’s Café . She told me that it was closed after hurricane Iniki hit in 1992. But, I did get a slice of their lilikoi pie “to go.”
So, I suggested that we try the Green Garden across the road, where we used to also go, many years ago. We were greeted by a sign, “Open only on weekends”. So, we ended up eating at the Hanapepe Café and Bakery, nearby. It was very good.
After lunch, we headed for Kaumakani, as we wanted to check out where we lived on the plantation. The managerial housing complex on the Main, and adjacent street, are very run down, since Olokele Sugar closed operations, and Robinson bought the property, in 1994. Robinson is renting many of the houses. While the girls were taking pictures of our former home, John Meideros, who lives in it now, pulled up in his pick-up. The girls had quite a long conversation with John. He was very animated and interested, and didn’t seem in any hurry to leave.
Friday, June 4. It turned out to be a long day. It was a good thing that we did some pre-planning, and stuck pretty close to our plan. It is good that we did, or we would not have been able to accomplish as much as we did. We pulled out of the parking lot of the Outrigger at 0930. Right on time!
It was about an hour’s ride up to the northern part of Kauai. Mary wondered where we used to go, and slide down the falls, into a pool of water. I told her it was the Kilauea Falls - near the Kilauea Point Lighthouse. We didn’t go back to the falls (we were on a schedule!). When we returned, I asked the concierge about the falls. He said that there had been a fatality there a few years ago, so they closed the falls to the public.
We passed the very pretty Princeville Resort, which includes 36 holes of golf. Princeville always reminds me of running into a tourist on the Hanalei pier. We were spending a week at the beach house that the plantation rented for the summer. I was standing on the pier watching the fishermen maneuvering their boat and nets. A fellow came up and started talking to me. He said that they were staying at the Princeville Resort, on the ridge overlooking Hanalei Bay, high above. I was impressed, because 50 years ago, it was fairly new. I knew that it was a posh place, because the room rates started at $100 a night. (I wonder what they are today?). He as ked me where I was from. I told him, “Kauai”. He said, “You mean that you live here all the time?” He seemed envious. Back to the highway
we wee approaching the guava turn before heading down into the Hanalei Valley. This is one of my favorite spots. I looked down on beautiful-sandy Lumahai Beach (where they filmed parts of “South Pacific”. Around the curve, I am looking down and seeing the many taro fields. (They make poi from the taro roots). After descending, we cross the one-way concrete bridge over the Hanalei River. The bridge must be a 100 years old. The State/County wanted to replace it with a modern two-way bridge, but the locals put up such a squawk, that they gave u on the idea. So, it’s still whichever car shows up first - going in either direction - has the right-of way.
I notice a lot of convertibles driving through Hanalei. They are fortunate that it is a nice day, and they can have the tops down. I
I notice one bald-white haired driver, and his female companion, in one of them. Good for him! I assume that they are all rental cars. Like the Napa Valley, they are popular rentals.
Drive through Hanalei, still on #560, heading for Haena - at the end of the road. We cross many small bridges on the winding scenic road. We arrive at the parking lot at the Haena State Park, and it is full! It is only 11:00 o’clock on a Friday morning, and the place is full. I couldn’t believe it! The last time that Marie and I were there (about 30 years ago) we ere the only ones on the beach, and the only car in the parking lot!
Outside of Lumahai Beach (that I have mentioned), this beach is the most scenic of any that I have seen. To the left, I can look at the bluff on the Napali Coast. To the right is the sandy beach. The girls unload their snorkeling gear, and Joan has a long walk to find a parking spot. I am the sentry, guarding their clothes and purses, while they explore the colorful fish inhabiting the reef.