DICK
Today, I lost a friend. While I have known Dick for only a year, I considered him my friend. Dick died this morning in his sleep, a victim of COPD. While I shouldn’t have been surprised with his death, as he was enrolled in the Hospice program. His responses, each time I asked him how he was doing, were indications were also indications that he was “hurting“. I guess it was the suddenness of his passing, that stunned me.
I saw Dick at dinner, here at Quail Creek, last night where he, and four of his male friends had gathered. (Today, I heard that Dick referred to the occasion as “The Last Supper”, or a “The Farewell Dinner.”. Apparently, Dick knew something that none of the rest of us knew! During dinner, he left his table and circled through the dining room in his power chair, greeting his Quail Creek friends at the various tables, as he often did. But, this time, it turned out to be his “Farewell”. Dick stopped at my table, and we greeted each other. Almost from when we met, he has admired my shirts! He would say, “Another beautiful -new shirt!” I used to explain that it wasn’t a “new” shirt - in some cases it was an “old” shirt! Occasionally, it was a new shirt. I would give credit to my daughter, Mary, who had purchased them. Dick would even give me “flyers”, that he had received in the mail, “pitching” shirts. (I needed more shirts like I needed more to eat.) I always checked on him, by asking him how he was doing. His usual response was “Not so hot”. He was on oxygen, along with a lack of appetite.
Occasionally, Dick and I would dine at the same table for four. It was on these occasions that I learned about his interesting background. He grew up in Salt Lake City, While being raised as a Mormon, he was not a practicing one. He met his “wife to be” in Salt Lake City. (She died a short time ago, which prompted Dick to move here to Quail Creek. I am sorry that I never got to meet her.) Besides being friendly, Dick was an good conversationalist. Having been trained, and worked, as a Geologist, he related interesting job experiences he had - traveling all over the world.
Christina, a CNA here at Quail Creek, told me about my “losing a buddy”, shortly after his death. She was in his room when he died. She gave him comfort right through to the end! She told of hearing his heavy breathing, so she played a Duke Ellington recording - Dick’s favorite music. Then, he peacefully went to sleep for the last time. Everyone deserves to have such empathetic and compassionate company when they leave this world. No one should have to die alone.
RCL - 7/10/10.
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Tuesday, July 6, 2010
KAUAI (Fini!)
KAUAI
I am a very fortunate man! How many fathers get to spend 24/7 with their three daughters in tropical Paradise? Not many.
I have a list of things that I would like to do before I check out from this world. High on my list was to re-visit Kauai where we lived for four and a half years, 50 years ago. Dan Canty, Vice President of Industrial Engineering for C. Brewer (one of Hawaii’s Big Five Factors) hired me to be Olokele Sugar Company’s first Industrial Engineer in 1958.
While Marie and I had been back to Hawaii a couple of times since, I still had that longing to once again visit the spiritual beauty of Hawaii. But, at 91, I was realistic, and didn’t expect to do this. But, when Mary, Joan and Sue suggested that we all go over together, my wish took legs. I didn’t hesitate to accept their offer. We enjoyed anticipating our trip while making our plans, and reminiscing since our return.
Stan, airport service, picked up all of us at Quail Creek on Wednesday morning, June 2. He was 15 minutes early for our 5:30 appointed time. Sue drove her truck over, and Katie will drive Tom over to pick it up. Michelle brought Joan and Mary over. I was sweating out room for all of our luggage, but no problem fitting it in Stan’s van. Heavy commute traffic going in to San Francisco, but it flowed smoothly at freeway speed. Having commuted from Vallejo to San Francisco for 14 years, I can relate to being tired from the wear and tear on the nervous system. Stan asked us if we would like to stop for coffee. We declined.
We arrived at SFO at 6:45. Joan had printed out our boarding passes the day before, so this speeded up our check-in at the United Counter. Also, it gave a $2 discount on the $25 bag charge. No wonder everyone hauls huge bags aboard, rather than check them. Some passengers have to stand on the seat to jam them in the bin and retrieve them. As I observe them hassling with their luggage, I can’t believe that the bags weigh 50 pounds or less!
The usual Security check-in. I couldn’t believe the long line - and this early in the morning. We hadn’t any more got to the end of the line, when Security opened another station. So back to where we had just walked from. Security is pretty routine and organized now, after nine years of tweaking the system. We were cleared in about 30 minutes.
I can remember our first trip to Hawaii over 50 years ago. Back then, everyone wore their “Sunday Best”. Contrast that with today, when people are dressed “down” for travel. This morning I saw grandparents each carrying a boogie board for their two young grandsons!
We started boarding United Flight 41 for a direct flight from San Francisco to Lihue, at 8:30 - 30 minutes prior to departure. What a co-incidence! Our 9:00 scheduled departure today is the same exact time as it was back on January 15, 1958, when we first left the mainland on our move to Hawaii. Our plane is a Boeing 757-200 with a full passenger load of 182 people. It is a single aisle - three seats on each side configuration. Three of us took up a row on the left side, with Mary across the aisle from Joan.
We backed out from Gate 89 at exactly 9:00. Not much wind, and being heavily loaded, it took a 40 second take-off run before we were airborne. Usually, it takes about 30 seconds. No free lunches anymore in “Economy”. United would sell us a sandwich for $9. We planned ahead and picked up one at the airport. The crew had a contest to estimate the time (Hawaii Daylight) when we would reach the mid-point. They gave time of departure, trip mileage, indicated air speed, and wind. I carefully worked it out to be 08:38. The actual time turned out to be 8:44. I can’t explain why I was so far off. I would guess that there was an error in the “givens”, or a change in the headwind. It’s a long ride westbound because we are bucking the high velocity jet stream. Before 9/11, one could walk up and down the aisle and stand in the galley. But because of security they discourage this now. I can’t imagine the fatigue, and pooled blood in the legs of the passengers, on the long-non-stop flights to Australia and Japan. Joan picked up a tuna salad sandwich at SFO, and we shared this for lunch. It was very tasty sandwich. United did give me a glass of water.
We landed in Lihue at 11:14 - 30 minutes early. A lady, representing Hawaiian Holidays, greeted us inside the terminal as we waited to pick up our luggage at the carrousel. She presented each of us with a double- plumeria lei. How nice and fragrant! The girls arranged our leis on the lanai at the Outrigger, and they stayed nice almost as long as we were there.
Kauai is sub-titled the “Garden Island”- and rightly so. It’s floral beauty is spectacular. I felt like I was in a spiritual paradise - far removed from reality. This is the oldest of the main Hawaiian Islands. Kauai has an area of 550 square miles, the fourth largest of the main islands. Lihue (County seat) is about 100 miles northwest of Honolulu. .
When we first arrived in Honolulu on January 15, 1958, the Territory of Hawaii’s economy was ranked as follows in importance:
(1) - Sugar
(2) - Pineapple
(3) - Government
(4) - Tourism.
Today, there is no longer any sugar or pineapple grown on the Island of Kauai. (I heard that marijuana is now the number one cash crop!) Tourism leads the economy, followed by Government. This is why the Hawaiian economy has taken such a beating during the current recession.
Lihue is the County seat, and yet Kapaa at 10,000 population, is twice as large! The 2000 census counted about 58,000 people. This figure was updated to 68,000 in 2008. It will be interesting what the Census Bureau comes up with in the current 2010 census. When we moved to Kauai in 1958, the population on Kauai was estimated to be 18,000 (1,000 Caucasians!) Kauai, and the small island of Niihau, (owned by the Robinson family), were the last Hawaiian Islands to join King Kamehameha’s Kingdom of Hawaii in 1810.
There are thousands of chickens roaming everywhere on the Island. They look like Rhode Island Reds to me. The chicken should be the State Bird, rather than the Nene! The original Polynesian settlers brought them as a food source. Hurricane Iniki didn’t help things, when it destroyed many of their coops. I can’t help but wonder what happens to all of the hens’ eggs? The chickens are not bashful. Wherever people are gathered - be it the beach or park - the chickens are there.
Our accommodations are great. We are on the second of four levels, and have partial ocean views, and look down on the pool area. Our condo building is as high as you can build on Kauai. The County building code limits buildings to a height of a palm tree (about 40 feet.)
It was quite a wait before Joan and Mary picked up our Hertz rental car. They said that the Hertz lady was promoting a lot of “extras”. Our car is a Toyota Camry. We need a full-size car for a trunk that is large enough to hold all of our luggage. Joan and Mary shared all of the driving during the week. They both are not only good drivers - with a sense of direction - but they both own Toyotas - Joan a Camry and Mary a Highlander. The driving arrangement made it much more pleasant for Sue and I.
A short drive from the airport in Lihue up #56, the Kuhio Highway, to Kapaa, and our Outrigger condo at Waipouli Beach. Our unit wasn’t ready when we checked in, and the girls went across the highway and shopped at Safeway. (They were shocked by the high food prices. They reflect the 25-30% cost of shipping the goods). There is also a Long’s Drug store in the complex. While CVS bought the Long’s Drugs mainland stores, the 24 Long’s in the Islands were outside of the mainland purchase. CVS plans to buy the 24 Hawaiian stores shortly. Our large “great room’ is very spacious and “open”. It includes a very nice full kitchen, a dining area, and a large living room. Off each bedroom is a large bathroom with a tub. Off the two bedrooms and the living room, there are nice lanai’s with an ocean view. at Wednesday evening, we ate dinner out at the nearby Bull Shed Restaurant - right on the beach. We had a nice Italian dinner in a very pleasant atmosphere.
Thursday morning, and we are off to Kalaheo and Kaumakani to visit the two houses we used to live in. It won’t be long before each time we start out, we will harmonize “On the Road Again!” Our first stop was at our Kalaheo house where we lived from January 1960 to June 1962. Sue was born while we lived there. I never knew our Kalaheo address because there was no mail delivery to our house. We picked up our mail at a “box” in the post office. As I remember, the small post office was located in the country store on the highway. Today, I notice that the address is 5222 Puwai. I recognized the house, and we pulled up in front.
“There is nothing like returning to a place that remains unchanged to see the ways in which you yourself have changed.” - Nelson Mandela.
The resident, Lawrence Vindinha, Sr. came out on his porch checking us out (slow day). We took a few pictures, and then introduced ourselves. We explained why we were browsing around. He said that his son was out back mowing (the sharp -wide leaved- buffalo grass). It wasn’t long before his son appeared. His father introduced him, as “Larry.” During our conversation, Larry said that he would be 60 on his next birthday. The father said that his wife had died a couple of years ago, and Larry was living with him. I was disappointed that they didn’t invite us to see the inside of the house. Lawrence and his wife bought the house from Bill and Frank Duarte. Our house was between the two brothers’ houses. I don’t know of any other owners other than the man and his wife from the mainland that Marie and I sold to.
We bought “5222” in 1960 for $14,000. Marie couldn’t cope with the very red dirt at Kaumakani. She suggested that we move. We found this house in Kalaheo that we both liked. It was about 1000 feet up the hill, mauka from the highway. So, it was cooler than Kaumakani, and of course much wetter. Even though we were only a 20 minute drive apart. I didn’t have a rain gauge back then. But I would guess that we probably got 100 inches of rain a year, compared to the 20 inches at Kaumakani! (We had to irrigate the sugar cane). At Kalaheo, we were only a few miles from Mt. Waialeale - “the wettest spot on earth” - where the rainfall averages 440 inches of rain a year. As I remember, it seemed to rain mostly at night. I would have mold on the soles of my dress shoes! Now, that is “damp”!
While talking to the two Vindinhas, I couldn’t help but notice the light green metal roof on the house. It looked exactly the same as it did in 1962, when I had last seen it. I mentioned that the roof has surely held up well (after nearly 50 years!) Lawrence. Sr. said he told his son Larry, that they should get a new roof. But, he said, “Each time, Larry says that he is waiting for the Permit!”.
We drove back in the “woods”, where no road existed 50 years ago. That’s where the kids played and explored. Now, there are beautiful homes back in there. There used to be just a foot path that went in there. Mary wanted to check out the spot where she, Anne and the Friedlander boys used to look for “ treasures”. I had never heard Mary or Anne, mention this before. Apparently, people would illegally drop off their junk back there. Mary also wanted to explore the “meadow” where horses and cows used to graze. These memories were quite emotional for her, as I am sure they were for Anne, too, the first time she re-visited those areas.
From Kalaheo, we headed for Hanapepe for lunch. I suggested that we eat at Mike’s Café. Marie and I, and the family, used to go there quite often. Mike’s Chinese food. was always fresh and, along with their tasty rice, was very good. Too, we liked Florence who served us. She was very good with serving the girls, plus she baked Mike’s delicious lilikoi pies. Occasionally, we would meet friends there for lunch or dinner. A memorable occasion was the day we had a Reception there following Sue’s Baptism at Holy Cross Church in Kalaheo, during December of 1961. Much to my disappointment, Mike’s restaurant was no longer in business Today, it is still a Chinese Restaurant (Wong‘s). I asked people who were having lunch (apparently, they were the owners, or their employees,) about Mike’s Café . She told me that it was closed after hurricane Iniki hit in 1992. But, I did get a slice of their lilikoi pie “to go.”
So, I suggested that we try the Green Garden across the road, where we used to also go, many years ago. We were greeted by a sign, “Open only on weekends”. So, we ended up eating at the Hanapepe Café and Bakery, nearby. It was very good.
After lunch, we headed for Kaumakani, as we wanted to check out where we lived on the Olokele Sugar Company plantation. The managerial housing complex on the Main, and adjacent street, are very run down. Olokele Sugar closed operations, and Robinson bought the property, in 1994. Robinson is renting many of the houses. While the girls were taking pictures of our former home, John Meideros, who lives in it now, pulled up in his pick-up. The girls had quite a long conversation with John. He was very animated and interesting, and didn’t seem in any hurry to leave.
Friday, June 4. It turned out to be a long day today. It was a good thing that we did some pre-planning, and stuck pretty close to our plan. Otherwise, we would not have been able to accomplish as much as we did. We pulled out of the parking lot of the Outrigger at 0930 this morning - . right on time!
It was about an hour’s ride up to the northern part of Kauai. Mary wondered where we used to go, and slide down the falls, into a pool of water. I told her it was the Kilauea Falls - near the Kilauea Point Lighthouse. We didn’t drive back to the falls (we were on a schedule!).
When we returned to the Outrigger, I asked the concierge about the Kilauea Falls. He said that there had been a fatality there a few years ago, so they closed the falls to the public.
We passed the very pretty Princeville Resort, which includes 36 holes of golf. Princeville always reminds me of when I ran into a tourist on the Hanalei pier. We were spending a week at the beach house, that the plantation rented for the summer. I was standing on the pier watching the fishermen maneuvering their boat and nets. A fellow came up and started talking to me. He said that they were staying at the Princeville Resort, on the ridge overlooking Hanalei Bay, high above. I was impressed, because 50 years ago, it was fairly new. I knew that it was a posh place, because the room rates started at $100 a night. (I wonder what they are today?). He
asked me where I was from. I told him, “Kauai”. He said, “You mean that you live here all the time?” He seemed envious.
Back to the highway, we were approaching the guava turn before heading down into the Hanalei Valley. This is one of my favorite spots. I looked down on beautiful-sandy Lumahai Beach (where they filmed parts of “South Pacific”.) Around the curve, I am looking down and seeing the many taro fields. (They make poi from the taro roots). After descending, we cross the one-way concrete bridge over the Hanalei River. The bridge must be a 100 years old. The State/County wanted to replace it with a modern two-way bridge, but the locals put up such a squawk, that they gave up on the idea. So, it’s still whichever car shows up first - going in either direction - has the right-of way.
I notice a lot of convertibles driving through Hanalei. They are fortunate that it is a nice day, and they can have the tops down. I notice one bald-white haired driver, and his female companion, in one of them. Good for him! I assume that they are all rental cars. Like the Napa Valley, they are popular rentals.
We drive through Hanalei, still on #560, heading for Haena - at the end of the road. We cross many small bridges on the winding scenic road. We arrive at the parking lot at the Haena State Park, and it is full! It is only 11:00 o’clock on a Friday morning, and the place is full! I couldn’t believe it! The last time that Marie and I were there (about 30 years ago) were the only ones on the beach, and the only car in the parking lot!
Outside of Lumahai Beach (that I have mentioned), this beach is the most scenic of any that I have seen. To the left, I can look at the bluff on the Napali Coast. To the right is the sandy beach. The girls unload their snorkeling gear, and Joan has a long walk back from a remote parking spot. I am the sentry, guarding their clothes and purses, while they explore the colorful fish inhabiting the reef, with their snorkels..
Next we had a nice lunch at the Calypso. We had a cool seat on the porch from where we had a good view of all the tourists passing through.
Olokele used to rent a beach house, on the beach at Hanalei, during the summer months. It was really nice. The Pacific Ocean was only a few yards away in the front yard. The plantation would let us take turns, using the house, to spend part of our vacations. I wanted to check the vacation house out while we were there. So we drove around for quite a while searching for the house. (It never used to be hard to find). After a fruitless search for a half hour, I talked them into giving up. The problem was that I couldn’t recall any landmark back then. In addition, there was a lot of building that had taken place in the last 50 years. (After getting back, I checked with our daughter Anne about the house. Anne has spent quite a bit of time on Kauai in recent years, so she was a good source. She told me that Hurricane Iniki leveled the house in 1992 I didn’t think of that, I just presumed that it had been torn down.)
Then, I suggested that we drive along Hanalei Bay beach front, so that we could see the Hanalei Pier and the former Wilcox mansion near the Hanalei Pavilion Beach Park. We saw a large mansion on the green, but it wasn’t familiar to me. I suspect that Iniki got the old mansion too, and what we were seeing was a reconstruction of it. We retraced our route back to Kapaa.
We had a little down time to rest and get ready to head out once again for Poipu. We had reservations at the Beach House Restaurant for dinner. Anne recommended that we eat there so we could also see a great Poipu sunset. She also suggested that we have a mai tai on the huge outside veranda, at the Hyatt, on Shipwreck Beach. While our reservation at the restaurant was for 6:30. We left Kapaa at 4:30 for Poipu, to allow plenty of time to savor the beach and our mai tai’s. We were fortunate to get a reservation, as Mary didn’t call until after we arrived on Wednesday. Dumb luck, they had just received a cancellation, and they squeezed us in. As we were pulling out of our Resort parking lot, we all started singing “On the Road Again”. I wish that I had taken my Willie Nelson CD of the song to play in the car.
The mai tais were great, the dinner was great, and the sunset was great. One couldn’t ask for more than that. While I was tired at the end of our perfect day, as my Mother used to say, “It is a good tired”.
Today, is Saturday. We are heading back to Poipu this morning, for snorkeling and visiting Spouting Horn and Koloa. I hadn’t visited Spouting Horn since we left Kauai in 1962. Back then, we parked at the side of the road and watched the “spouting“. Today, there is a parking lot, and many vendors’ canopy’s - selling everything from jewelry to T-shirts. I wonder where some of the shell necklaces and earrings come from? For there is a State law of “what you find in Hawaii, stays in Hawaii”. There were more people browsing among the shops than there were people watching the spouting! I was disappointed with the height of the “spouting” - perhaps it was low tide. Then, again, maybe my memory was influenced by seeing “Old Faithful” last year. Some of the viewers saw some sea turtles swimming around the lava rock. Try as I did, I couldn’t spot them.
The girls had a nice swim/snorkel at Brennecke’s Beach. This is right next to the pavilion/cove where we used to “splash.” I remember one Christmas when we were all wading in the cove, and the water and air temperatures were the same - 71 degrees! An added attraction were a couple of Monk Seal visitors lounging peacefully on the beach. They are a critically endangered. (there are fewer Hawaiian -monk seals in the wild than there are giant pandas!). The monk seal species turned up 13-15 million years ago before Hawaii was! The life guards tried to give them some privacy by cordoning them off with yellow tape.
Next, we drove a few miles to Koloa. This village is known for McBride Sugar Mill which was the first sugar plantation in Hawaii (1835). Today, a portion of the old mill is now a museum, as the plantation has been closed, along with the other plantations on Kauai. I don’t think there are any plantations still operating in Hawaii. Pineapple has had the same fate, There were 26 sugar plantations operating back in 1958, of which C. Brewer owned half. The annual production of raw sugar in the Islands (97 % pure - C& H Sugar removed the other 3% of molasses and impurities.) was a million tons a year! It became infeasible to continue operating the two agricultural industries. Pineapple and Sugar could be produced cheaper by others in the world. It is sad to drive by the fallow lands that I remember full of green-living plants. Some of the land was converted to macadamia nut and coffee trees. (We drove by the Kauai Coffee plantation every time we were near Lihue.) A lot of the acreage was used for building houses, shopping centers and hotels.
I made the mistake of mentioning the small -warm -coconut pies that we used to buy at the Chinese grocery in Koloa. They were delicious and wanted to experience that wonderful taste again. We got all these bum steers on where we might find the pies. We made many stops trying to track them down. I don’t think there is anyone alive who remembers the individual pies. I think those giving us directions, were confusing them with cocoanut- cream pies. After we returned to Fairfield, I asked Anne (who has a very good memory) if she remembered them. She said, “Of course. Mother used to cut them in half and we shared.” I think the problem was probably because Anne called them “turnovers” (their correct name), rather than pies. Too, how many people are still in the area fifty years later?
It is Sunday and time is zipping by. Today we are heading for Waimea Canyon, Kokee and the Kalahau Lookout. First we will stop at Holy Cross Church in Kalaheo - our last parish when we lived in the Islands. Mary called the church and found that Mass was at 0945. So, we planned to attend on the way to Waimea Canyon. I am glad that we did. Even though it was a new church building, it was in the same location. The school that Anne and Mary attended for a couple of years, is still there. I assume that Iniki destroyed the church building that I was familiar with.
When we went there 50 years ago, the women sat on one side of the church, and the men (who weren’t outside “talking stories”) sat on the other side - a strange custom! Now, the modern church is “in the round”, with mixed seating, after Vatican II. A friendly lady put a shell lei around our necks as we entered. What a nice welcome! After Mass, the young priest invited all travelers to come up and stand in front of the altar for his “safe return” Blessing” - Hawaiian friendliness in action!
Afterwards we were on our way to Hanapepe for breakfast at the “Green Garden” restaurant. One family used to eat there occasionally, even though we preferred Mike’s Café nearby. Today, it is just “Open” on weekends, as the owner-operator works in Lihue during the week. We also, bought a few of their papayas. I had a piece for breakfast every morning and they were as delicious - just as I remembered them. (The girls also bought some local Kapaa bananas at Safeway, and they were very sweet and delicious.)
We left the Kaumualli Highway (#50) and turned on to Kokee Road (#552), and started up the grade to Waimea State Park. Had we continued on the highway, we would have ended up in a few miles at Barking Sands, home of the Pacific Missile Range Facility. I read in the Garden Island paper where they are still talking about continuing this road around the northern end of the island to Highway 560 at Haena. Then, you would be able to drive completely around the Island! They were talking about this 50 years ago. It will never happen - unless they can get a lot of money from a future TARP fund. I would hate to have the responsibility to make a cost estimate. It is very hard to just fathom the idea. How would you justify it - by making it more convenient for a few tourists to navigate the Island?
The girls got out and viewed the splendorous Waimea Canyon. They didn’t see any of the white- mountain sheep. Then, we continued on to Kokee State Park. This is a huge green meadow. We used to enjoy a picnic here with Barbara and Don Brandt, who now live in Hilo, on the Big Island.
Next, on to the Kalalau Lookout. What a bum road. Had to drive slowly in low gear and then couldn’t dodge all the pot holes. If Hertz knew that we were mistreating their vehicle (and ourselves) in such a manner, there would have been a sur-charge. While I had been to the “Lookout” a few times, I only remember it being clear once or twice. (That’s why the helicopters do such a good business!) But, the view of the Napali Coast and the Pacific Ocean is tremendous when clear - well worth the extra effort of getting there. Today, it was socked in as per usual - a big disappointment! But, an off-set - the bougainvillea in the area are tremendous! An uneventful ride down the mountain and back up the south-west coast to Kapaa.
Today, must be Monday! The “wash” is drying on the clothes lines in the back yards. The multi-colored garments are waving in the breeze - like Hawaiian flags. We got started at our magic time - 0930. The car thermometer says 77 degrees. (You can’t beat this!) The odometer says that we have covered 337 miles. Gas at the 76 station is posted at $3.58.
We drove to the Wailua Falls, part of Wailua River Park. We turned to the right off #56, between Kapaa and Lihue, and drove about five miles on Maalo Road, back to the Falls area. Naturally, the large Waimea River feeds these Falls. I never realized that the Falls were so close to the popular Fern Grotto. I was surprised to read that Kauai is the only island in the Hawaiian chain, to have navigable rivers. While driving back to the Falls, we came upon a large pasture area with many horses, colts and mules. This must be the foaling season as there were quite a few little ones tagging along behind their Mothers. I didn’t think that Joan would pass this up. Sure enough, she pulled off to the left side of the road and parked near the fence. I don’t think that we were the first ones to stop there. The animals were grazing when we first saw them. But, after they spotted us by the fence, they all sauntered over to be hand fed!
I was surprised to find vendors parked at the Falls. Not only were they parked, there, but they took up the first four prime -parking spots! The first guy was working from the back of his pick-up making small baskets from cocoanut palm reeds. He was quite skilled. Mary and Joan bought one of his (green) baskets. The guy parked next to him was selling shell and bead jewelry (which he supposedly made), from the back of his pick-up. While the girls looked at his wares, I don’t think they were comfortable with the authenticity, quality or prices. The next two parking spots were occupied by women and their cars. I don’t remember what they were peddling. We had a good view of the twin falls - about our level, and not too far away. Quite a way down to the bottom, I could see some people playing in the pool of water from the falls.
After seeing the Falls. We headed for Rice Street in Lihue, for our Saimin “fix”. I used to go to a little café in Hanapepe for saimin when we lived here. But, when we had lunch at the bakery there the other day, I didn’t see it. Funny, how things change in 50 years! We enjoyed our different lunch. While the café’ was small, it was full. When people would leave, it wasn’t long before they were replaced by newcomers. We sat at the counter - on small stools which weren’t bolted to the floor. While they weren’t too safe, they were practical, and were part of the interesting atmosphere. Three middle-aged ladies staffed the facility - one cooking and dishing up in the small kitchen - and the other two serving as fast as she prepared the noodle combinations. So, between all of us, we kept them busy. The overhead fans didn’t quite provide enough cool air.
We were in the area of the Nawiliwili port, so we drove around the harbor area. We wanted to see where our car and furniture was loaded on to the Matson freighter, when we returned to the Mainland - and Vallejo - in 1962. Our furnishings left from here because the Port is the closest to Kalaheo. When our things were in-bound from Antioch in 1958, they arrived and were off-loaded at Port Allen, which is closer to Kaumakani.
It was only about a half hour drive to Poipu. We wanted to see Spouting Horn, and the girls wanted to snorkel at Brennecke’s Beach. This was alongside the cove where we used to go. We stopped first at the Spouting Horn parking lot. The last time that I was here was about 50 years ago. At that time, we just parked along the side of the road to watch the “spouting”. There was a lot of exposed lava rock and we had the place to ourselves. There was higher spouting back then.
Today, besides the large parking area, there are a string of tented shops leading down to the spouting area. The vendors are selling everything from jewelry to sweat shirts. I wonder where some of the shell necklaces and earrings come from. For, there is a state policy of “what you find in Hawaii, stays in Hawaii.” The car thermometer, in Poipu, says 86 degrees.
We stopped a couple of times to pick up real estate flyers touting beach-front rentals or “For Sales”. I sat in a covered picnic area “guarding” purses and clothes while the girls snorkeled.
We had a nice lunch at a cozy restaurant in nearby Koloa. We walked through a few shops, before heading on another “wild goose chase” looking for my “cocoanut pies”, but to no avail.
Back to Kapaa and the Outrigger. The girls went down to the pool and the beach, while I read the Garden Island and the Honolulu Advertiser. About this time, the Honolulu Star Bulletin (the afternoon paper) bought the Advertiser. Their merger resulted in a loss of 300 newspaper jobs!
Monday night, the girls went out for an Italian dinner next door to Bobby V’s Italian restaurant Pizzeria. I was content to stay behind and dined on the remainder of my saimin lunch, and a piece of cocoanut crème pie. I looked forward to breakfast every morning on the lanai, watching the workers below, sprucing up the grounds. How about my menu: papaya, guava juice and cold cereal topped with a very sweet and juicy banana from a local Kapaa tree? What a way to go!
During the week, we passed the former Cocoanut Palms complex on the Wailua River many times. It was ruined by Iniki in 1992. Apparently, the owners didn’t have any insurance, or resources to repair/rebuild it. It sits on such prime property, and is an eyesore. It is extra depressing for me because Marie and I used to go there quite often, for dinner, the lighting of the torches, and entertainment. Now, each time that we pass by, I am overwhelmed by sadness recalling my great memories of 50 years ago.
The girls went next door each morning to Marie’s bakery for their coffee. During their visits their conversation got around to me and Olokele. Marie told them that Ruth Cassel still lived on a farm in Waimea. She said we would remember each other. When they told me, I certainly remembered Ruth! How could I forget? I remembered her for her beauty and friendliness. Even though she was a haole’, she had that Hawaiian friendliness and graciousness. The Cassels had five kids as we did - four boys and a girl. I worked with her husband, Jim, on the plantation. He was Olokele’s Agriculturist. Both of them were from Iowa, having arrived a few months before we did. They were both musicians - Ruth played the piano, and gave lessons to the plantation kids. Jim played the trombone.
Tuesday turned out to be a very interesting - but a long day!
Early in the morning, Mary called Ruth to see if we could get together later on. Ruth said that she had organ practice in the morning. So she invited us to her house in Waimea that afternoon, for cold drinks
and pu-pu’s. We settled for 4:30.
We left Kapaa about 10, heading for the Kauai Museum in Lihue. I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the museum. The entry fee was $10 ($8 for me, a Senior, and Kamaaina’s), but the experience was well worth the price of admission. Too, the ticket is valid for several days as there is too much to see during a single visit - especially, if you also visit their very nice gift shop It is strange. The Museum was established in 1960, but I had never been there. The Museum building was dedicated to Albert Spencer Wilcox.
We would have liked to take the guided tour, but no docent. She said that no one was there at 10, so he went home! I enjoyed their great sea shell and wooden bowl collections on the main floor. The building is not ADA friendly, having no elevators. I did climb many stairs to get to the second level, as I wanted to see the sugar plantation exhibit. I found that Olokele Sugar Company was started in 1941, and it was in business for 53 years - until Gay & Robinson bought them in 1994. The exhibit mentioned that the plantation built a 200 home complex at nearby Kaumakani to house the hourly-paid workers. The salaried employees were housed in nice houses on the main street, and the street behind. I would have liked to have seen the Textile festival exhibit of Hawaiian quilts, but that meant walking up more stairs, so I passed.
Back to our condo for some respite and a quick turn around to visit Ruth in Wamea. Afterwards, Mary had made reservations at the very nice Gaylord restaurant - between Lihue and the Kauai Community College,
“On the Road Again”. This time to Waimea to visit Ruth Cassel. It took us a little over an hour for the drive from Kapaa to Waimea. There was quite a bit of traffic, and we allowed only an hour. The narrow -bumpy road (with numerous barking dogs along the way, was as Ruth described it to Mary. Ruth was a very pleasant and gracious hostess. It felt good to see her once again. She offered our choice of beaucoup drinks. She also had prepared some delicious cheese and cracker snacks. Ruth gave us a tour of her charming home, and explained many photos of her picture collection.
Joan had purchased a booklet at the Museum - “NA PUA O KOKEE” - a Field guide to the Native Flowering Plants of Northwestern Kauai”. The author was Katie Cassel. Joan asked Ruth if Katie was any relation. Ruth said that she was her daughter-in-law. Then, Ruth brought out a copies of Katie’s book and gave one to each of us. It wasn’t much longer, when a car pulled up and a young lady climbed the stairs. It was Katie! What a small world. She signed each of our copies of her book.
Then Ruth gave us a walking tour of her farm - about 4 acres overall. She pointed out banana, lilikoi, mango, papaya and monkey pod trees. I asked her about the Waimea hospital (where Joan and Sue were born), and Ruth said that it hadn’t been torn down and was still there. So, we stopped by and took pictures on our way back.
The time for our dinner reservation at Gaylords kept creeping up. Mary called the restaurant twice to reserve a later time. Fortunately they weren’t to busy so they accommodated us. We finally arrived at the restaurant about 8:30 for our original 6:30 reservation. Gaylords is located within the Kilohana Estate, on the outskirts of Lihue. The mansion was established in 1935, but I don’t recall seeing it when we lived here. It was the home of Ethel and Gaylord Wilcox - an old Island family.
We were the only patrons still in the restaurant - except for a wedding party in the private dining room. The girls sensed some hostility in the waiter - probably because he was held over to serve us. (I didn’t sense this attitude.). At the Gaylord menu prices, It was worth their wait for us. While tiring, it was a very memorable day!
This morning (Wednesday, June 9, 2010) is “get-away” day - we return to San Francisco. Our direct (we hope so!) United Flight #62 is scheduled to depart from Lihue at 1:15P. What amazes me is how the four of us were dedicated to being “on time”. None of us wanted to be accused of lagging. Before we checked out from The Outrigger, Joan went on line and printed our boarding passes, and prepaid the $23 for checking each of our bags. Only Mary, whose bag was bumping the 50 pound maximum, got her money’s worth. But, we shouldn’t comment because Mary very nicely volunteered to include some of our stuff in her large suitcase.
Joan left us, and our luggage, off - right in front - near the Baggage Agricultural Inspection Station, and returned our rental car to Hertz. We had a couple of hours wait before departure. But, I’d rather sit at the airport and have a leisurely check-in, than sit back at the hotel and then scramble to make it on time.
Our equipment was a Boeing 757 twin engine plane - the same type United used when we flew over. The same crew had been aboard this same plane, inbound from San Francisco, earlier this noon. The quick turn-around makes economical sense. I can remember back when a passenger plane needed four engines in order to be certified for over-water flights. Today, with these huge powerful jet engines, two exceed the power of four. The Boeing 757 can still fly using a single engine!
It is hard to believe how large the Lihue airport is today. Fifty years ago, when I was flying inter-island on business, the terminal was just a small building - housing the Hawaiian and the Aloha Airlines ticket offices, and a small café`. The turbo-prop operations were small - the ground crew would roll out stairs to the plane, to load and unload passengers. I remember once when I forgot my ticket to Honolulu. When boarding, I explained it to the Flight attendant. She said, “That’s O.K. Just mail it in after you return!” How about that for the Aloha Spirit?
We were number one for take-off. Wheels were retracted at 1:19P after a 25 second take-off run. An uneventful flight, flying at 34,000 feet. We were scheduled to get in at 2125, but the Captain said that we would be arriving about 30 minutes early. He hadn’t any more than said this, when we started a flat 360 degree turn to the right. We flew this pattern for about a half hour. The only redeeming feature was almost a continuous view of the beautiful sunset! The Captain said that the airport was socked in, and we were “holding” waiting for the fog to lift. Shortly, afterwards he came back on the PA and said that we were running low on fuel, and Approach Control was diverting us to an alternate airport - (San Jose). In all my piloting during WWII, and during the Korean War, I was diverted from landing at Mather Field twice - because the weather was below landing minimums - for overnight stays at Travis and Merced. The pilot started his letdown at 8:30P.
Instead of a straight - in approach to San Jose, we zigzagged over the water to take our turn in the trail of planes on their final approach. Instead of landing at SFO 30 minutes early, we landed in San Jose an hour and a half late. We spent 15 minutes taxiing to a remote cargo area to be re-fueled. When refueling was completed, the Captain told us that we would head to a Gate, and those that wanted to disembark in San Jose, were welcome to do so. Then, we would be off to SFO. The next thing they said was that we would NOT be heading to a Gate, but would be heading directly for SFO. I thought it was strange that they would re-fuel the aircraft with all of us aboard. It doesn’t seem like a very safe practice. I wonder if they actually did refuel? We left the cargo area at 10:40P
Mary called Stan, our air porter service, from San Jose, and told him not to wait for us. Stan thanked her. He said he had a 5:30 pick-up for the next morning. We took off for SFO. I thought that the pilot would just leave the wheels and flaps down for the short run up Highway 101. The pilot had just re-tracked them, when the Flight Attendant said, “Prepare for landing! . It was a routine departure. But, it seemed that we were flying just above the stalling speed, to jockey for position on the final approach. An uneventful landing in San Francisco about 11:30 - two and a half hours late! If this were a Southwest flight, the passengers would have clapped!
We collected our luggage at the carousel, and found some chairs to decide on Plan B. Mary called Jason and asked him if he would pick us up. He did his Boy scout good Turn and agreed. Joan and Sue went up to the upper level, to Subway and got sandwiches for us. Jason arrived at about 1:15, and I arrived back at Quail Creek at 2:30.
Things that I miss most about Kauai:
- Seeing the beautiful hibiscus bushes at the Outrigger - the first thing in the morning, and the last thing at night.
- Looking at the ocean from our lanai during my breakfast.
- Experiencing the natural beauty of Kauai all around me.
-Feeling the warm -trade winds on my face.
-Encountering the friendly local people.
-The slower pace of Hawaiian life.
“Every now and then go away, have a little relaxation; for when you come back to your work, your judgment will be surer. To remain constantly at work will cause you to lose power of judgment. When you go some distance away, then your work appears smaller, and more of it can be taken in at a glance, so a lack of harmony, or proportion is more readily seen.”
- Leonardo da Vinci ( from the booklet. “The Tao of Dad”, by Tracy Gold.)
Ray L’Amoreaux
July 3, 2010.
I am a very fortunate man! How many fathers get to spend 24/7 with their three daughters in tropical Paradise? Not many.
I have a list of things that I would like to do before I check out from this world. High on my list was to re-visit Kauai where we lived for four and a half years, 50 years ago. Dan Canty, Vice President of Industrial Engineering for C. Brewer (one of Hawaii’s Big Five Factors) hired me to be Olokele Sugar Company’s first Industrial Engineer in 1958.
While Marie and I had been back to Hawaii a couple of times since, I still had that longing to once again visit the spiritual beauty of Hawaii. But, at 91, I was realistic, and didn’t expect to do this. But, when Mary, Joan and Sue suggested that we all go over together, my wish took legs. I didn’t hesitate to accept their offer. We enjoyed anticipating our trip while making our plans, and reminiscing since our return.
Stan, airport service, picked up all of us at Quail Creek on Wednesday morning, June 2. He was 15 minutes early for our 5:30 appointed time. Sue drove her truck over, and Katie will drive Tom over to pick it up. Michelle brought Joan and Mary over. I was sweating out room for all of our luggage, but no problem fitting it in Stan’s van. Heavy commute traffic going in to San Francisco, but it flowed smoothly at freeway speed. Having commuted from Vallejo to San Francisco for 14 years, I can relate to being tired from the wear and tear on the nervous system. Stan asked us if we would like to stop for coffee. We declined.
We arrived at SFO at 6:45. Joan had printed out our boarding passes the day before, so this speeded up our check-in at the United Counter. Also, it gave a $2 discount on the $25 bag charge. No wonder everyone hauls huge bags aboard, rather than check them. Some passengers have to stand on the seat to jam them in the bin and retrieve them. As I observe them hassling with their luggage, I can’t believe that the bags weigh 50 pounds or less!
The usual Security check-in. I couldn’t believe the long line - and this early in the morning. We hadn’t any more got to the end of the line, when Security opened another station. So back to where we had just walked from. Security is pretty routine and organized now, after nine years of tweaking the system. We were cleared in about 30 minutes.
I can remember our first trip to Hawaii over 50 years ago. Back then, everyone wore their “Sunday Best”. Contrast that with today, when people are dressed “down” for travel. This morning I saw grandparents each carrying a boogie board for their two young grandsons!
We started boarding United Flight 41 for a direct flight from San Francisco to Lihue, at 8:30 - 30 minutes prior to departure. What a co-incidence! Our 9:00 scheduled departure today is the same exact time as it was back on January 15, 1958, when we first left the mainland on our move to Hawaii. Our plane is a Boeing 757-200 with a full passenger load of 182 people. It is a single aisle - three seats on each side configuration. Three of us took up a row on the left side, with Mary across the aisle from Joan.
We backed out from Gate 89 at exactly 9:00. Not much wind, and being heavily loaded, it took a 40 second take-off run before we were airborne. Usually, it takes about 30 seconds. No free lunches anymore in “Economy”. United would sell us a sandwich for $9. We planned ahead and picked up one at the airport. The crew had a contest to estimate the time (Hawaii Daylight) when we would reach the mid-point. They gave time of departure, trip mileage, indicated air speed, and wind. I carefully worked it out to be 08:38. The actual time turned out to be 8:44. I can’t explain why I was so far off. I would guess that there was an error in the “givens”, or a change in the headwind. It’s a long ride westbound because we are bucking the high velocity jet stream. Before 9/11, one could walk up and down the aisle and stand in the galley. But because of security they discourage this now. I can’t imagine the fatigue, and pooled blood in the legs of the passengers, on the long-non-stop flights to Australia and Japan. Joan picked up a tuna salad sandwich at SFO, and we shared this for lunch. It was very tasty sandwich. United did give me a glass of water.
We landed in Lihue at 11:14 - 30 minutes early. A lady, representing Hawaiian Holidays, greeted us inside the terminal as we waited to pick up our luggage at the carrousel. She presented each of us with a double- plumeria lei. How nice and fragrant! The girls arranged our leis on the lanai at the Outrigger, and they stayed nice almost as long as we were there.
Kauai is sub-titled the “Garden Island”- and rightly so. It’s floral beauty is spectacular. I felt like I was in a spiritual paradise - far removed from reality. This is the oldest of the main Hawaiian Islands. Kauai has an area of 550 square miles, the fourth largest of the main islands. Lihue (County seat) is about 100 miles northwest of Honolulu. .
When we first arrived in Honolulu on January 15, 1958, the Territory of Hawaii’s economy was ranked as follows in importance:
(1) - Sugar
(2) - Pineapple
(3) - Government
(4) - Tourism.
Today, there is no longer any sugar or pineapple grown on the Island of Kauai. (I heard that marijuana is now the number one cash crop!) Tourism leads the economy, followed by Government. This is why the Hawaiian economy has taken such a beating during the current recession.
Lihue is the County seat, and yet Kapaa at 10,000 population, is twice as large! The 2000 census counted about 58,000 people. This figure was updated to 68,000 in 2008. It will be interesting what the Census Bureau comes up with in the current 2010 census. When we moved to Kauai in 1958, the population on Kauai was estimated to be 18,000 (1,000 Caucasians!) Kauai, and the small island of Niihau, (owned by the Robinson family), were the last Hawaiian Islands to join King Kamehameha’s Kingdom of Hawaii in 1810.
There are thousands of chickens roaming everywhere on the Island. They look like Rhode Island Reds to me. The chicken should be the State Bird, rather than the Nene! The original Polynesian settlers brought them as a food source. Hurricane Iniki didn’t help things, when it destroyed many of their coops. I can’t help but wonder what happens to all of the hens’ eggs? The chickens are not bashful. Wherever people are gathered - be it the beach or park - the chickens are there.
Our accommodations are great. We are on the second of four levels, and have partial ocean views, and look down on the pool area. Our condo building is as high as you can build on Kauai. The County building code limits buildings to a height of a palm tree (about 40 feet.)
It was quite a wait before Joan and Mary picked up our Hertz rental car. They said that the Hertz lady was promoting a lot of “extras”. Our car is a Toyota Camry. We need a full-size car for a trunk that is large enough to hold all of our luggage. Joan and Mary shared all of the driving during the week. They both are not only good drivers - with a sense of direction - but they both own Toyotas - Joan a Camry and Mary a Highlander. The driving arrangement made it much more pleasant for Sue and I.
A short drive from the airport in Lihue up #56, the Kuhio Highway, to Kapaa, and our Outrigger condo at Waipouli Beach. Our unit wasn’t ready when we checked in, and the girls went across the highway and shopped at Safeway. (They were shocked by the high food prices. They reflect the 25-30% cost of shipping the goods). There is also a Long’s Drug store in the complex. While CVS bought the Long’s Drugs mainland stores, the 24 Long’s in the Islands were outside of the mainland purchase. CVS plans to buy the 24 Hawaiian stores shortly. Our large “great room’ is very spacious and “open”. It includes a very nice full kitchen, a dining area, and a large living room. Off each bedroom is a large bathroom with a tub. Off the two bedrooms and the living room, there are nice lanai’s with an ocean view. at Wednesday evening, we ate dinner out at the nearby Bull Shed Restaurant - right on the beach. We had a nice Italian dinner in a very pleasant atmosphere.
Thursday morning, and we are off to Kalaheo and Kaumakani to visit the two houses we used to live in. It won’t be long before each time we start out, we will harmonize “On the Road Again!” Our first stop was at our Kalaheo house where we lived from January 1960 to June 1962. Sue was born while we lived there. I never knew our Kalaheo address because there was no mail delivery to our house. We picked up our mail at a “box” in the post office. As I remember, the small post office was located in the country store on the highway. Today, I notice that the address is 5222 Puwai. I recognized the house, and we pulled up in front.
“There is nothing like returning to a place that remains unchanged to see the ways in which you yourself have changed.” - Nelson Mandela.
The resident, Lawrence Vindinha, Sr. came out on his porch checking us out (slow day). We took a few pictures, and then introduced ourselves. We explained why we were browsing around. He said that his son was out back mowing (the sharp -wide leaved- buffalo grass). It wasn’t long before his son appeared. His father introduced him, as “Larry.” During our conversation, Larry said that he would be 60 on his next birthday. The father said that his wife had died a couple of years ago, and Larry was living with him. I was disappointed that they didn’t invite us to see the inside of the house. Lawrence and his wife bought the house from Bill and Frank Duarte. Our house was between the two brothers’ houses. I don’t know of any other owners other than the man and his wife from the mainland that Marie and I sold to.
We bought “5222” in 1960 for $14,000. Marie couldn’t cope with the very red dirt at Kaumakani. She suggested that we move. We found this house in Kalaheo that we both liked. It was about 1000 feet up the hill, mauka from the highway. So, it was cooler than Kaumakani, and of course much wetter. Even though we were only a 20 minute drive apart. I didn’t have a rain gauge back then. But I would guess that we probably got 100 inches of rain a year, compared to the 20 inches at Kaumakani! (We had to irrigate the sugar cane). At Kalaheo, we were only a few miles from Mt. Waialeale - “the wettest spot on earth” - where the rainfall averages 440 inches of rain a year. As I remember, it seemed to rain mostly at night. I would have mold on the soles of my dress shoes! Now, that is “damp”!
While talking to the two Vindinhas, I couldn’t help but notice the light green metal roof on the house. It looked exactly the same as it did in 1962, when I had last seen it. I mentioned that the roof has surely held up well (after nearly 50 years!) Lawrence. Sr. said he told his son Larry, that they should get a new roof. But, he said, “Each time, Larry says that he is waiting for the Permit!”.
We drove back in the “woods”, where no road existed 50 years ago. That’s where the kids played and explored. Now, there are beautiful homes back in there. There used to be just a foot path that went in there. Mary wanted to check out the spot where she, Anne and the Friedlander boys used to look for “ treasures”. I had never heard Mary or Anne, mention this before. Apparently, people would illegally drop off their junk back there. Mary also wanted to explore the “meadow” where horses and cows used to graze. These memories were quite emotional for her, as I am sure they were for Anne, too, the first time she re-visited those areas.
From Kalaheo, we headed for Hanapepe for lunch. I suggested that we eat at Mike’s Café. Marie and I, and the family, used to go there quite often. Mike’s Chinese food. was always fresh and, along with their tasty rice, was very good. Too, we liked Florence who served us. She was very good with serving the girls, plus she baked Mike’s delicious lilikoi pies. Occasionally, we would meet friends there for lunch or dinner. A memorable occasion was the day we had a Reception there following Sue’s Baptism at Holy Cross Church in Kalaheo, during December of 1961. Much to my disappointment, Mike’s restaurant was no longer in business Today, it is still a Chinese Restaurant (Wong‘s). I asked people who were having lunch (apparently, they were the owners, or their employees,) about Mike’s Café . She told me that it was closed after hurricane Iniki hit in 1992. But, I did get a slice of their lilikoi pie “to go.”
So, I suggested that we try the Green Garden across the road, where we used to also go, many years ago. We were greeted by a sign, “Open only on weekends”. So, we ended up eating at the Hanapepe Café and Bakery, nearby. It was very good.
After lunch, we headed for Kaumakani, as we wanted to check out where we lived on the Olokele Sugar Company plantation. The managerial housing complex on the Main, and adjacent street, are very run down. Olokele Sugar closed operations, and Robinson bought the property, in 1994. Robinson is renting many of the houses. While the girls were taking pictures of our former home, John Meideros, who lives in it now, pulled up in his pick-up. The girls had quite a long conversation with John. He was very animated and interesting, and didn’t seem in any hurry to leave.
Friday, June 4. It turned out to be a long day today. It was a good thing that we did some pre-planning, and stuck pretty close to our plan. Otherwise, we would not have been able to accomplish as much as we did. We pulled out of the parking lot of the Outrigger at 0930 this morning - . right on time!
It was about an hour’s ride up to the northern part of Kauai. Mary wondered where we used to go, and slide down the falls, into a pool of water. I told her it was the Kilauea Falls - near the Kilauea Point Lighthouse. We didn’t drive back to the falls (we were on a schedule!).
When we returned to the Outrigger, I asked the concierge about the Kilauea Falls. He said that there had been a fatality there a few years ago, so they closed the falls to the public.
We passed the very pretty Princeville Resort, which includes 36 holes of golf. Princeville always reminds me of when I ran into a tourist on the Hanalei pier. We were spending a week at the beach house, that the plantation rented for the summer. I was standing on the pier watching the fishermen maneuvering their boat and nets. A fellow came up and started talking to me. He said that they were staying at the Princeville Resort, on the ridge overlooking Hanalei Bay, high above. I was impressed, because 50 years ago, it was fairly new. I knew that it was a posh place, because the room rates started at $100 a night. (I wonder what they are today?). He
asked me where I was from. I told him, “Kauai”. He said, “You mean that you live here all the time?” He seemed envious.
Back to the highway, we were approaching the guava turn before heading down into the Hanalei Valley. This is one of my favorite spots. I looked down on beautiful-sandy Lumahai Beach (where they filmed parts of “South Pacific”.) Around the curve, I am looking down and seeing the many taro fields. (They make poi from the taro roots). After descending, we cross the one-way concrete bridge over the Hanalei River. The bridge must be a 100 years old. The State/County wanted to replace it with a modern two-way bridge, but the locals put up such a squawk, that they gave up on the idea. So, it’s still whichever car shows up first - going in either direction - has the right-of way.
I notice a lot of convertibles driving through Hanalei. They are fortunate that it is a nice day, and they can have the tops down. I notice one bald-white haired driver, and his female companion, in one of them. Good for him! I assume that they are all rental cars. Like the Napa Valley, they are popular rentals.
We drive through Hanalei, still on #560, heading for Haena - at the end of the road. We cross many small bridges on the winding scenic road. We arrive at the parking lot at the Haena State Park, and it is full! It is only 11:00 o’clock on a Friday morning, and the place is full! I couldn’t believe it! The last time that Marie and I were there (about 30 years ago) were the only ones on the beach, and the only car in the parking lot!
Outside of Lumahai Beach (that I have mentioned), this beach is the most scenic of any that I have seen. To the left, I can look at the bluff on the Napali Coast. To the right is the sandy beach. The girls unload their snorkeling gear, and Joan has a long walk back from a remote parking spot. I am the sentry, guarding their clothes and purses, while they explore the colorful fish inhabiting the reef, with their snorkels..
Next we had a nice lunch at the Calypso. We had a cool seat on the porch from where we had a good view of all the tourists passing through.
Olokele used to rent a beach house, on the beach at Hanalei, during the summer months. It was really nice. The Pacific Ocean was only a few yards away in the front yard. The plantation would let us take turns, using the house, to spend part of our vacations. I wanted to check the vacation house out while we were there. So we drove around for quite a while searching for the house. (It never used to be hard to find). After a fruitless search for a half hour, I talked them into giving up. The problem was that I couldn’t recall any landmark back then. In addition, there was a lot of building that had taken place in the last 50 years. (After getting back, I checked with our daughter Anne about the house. Anne has spent quite a bit of time on Kauai in recent years, so she was a good source. She told me that Hurricane Iniki leveled the house in 1992 I didn’t think of that, I just presumed that it had been torn down.)
Then, I suggested that we drive along Hanalei Bay beach front, so that we could see the Hanalei Pier and the former Wilcox mansion near the Hanalei Pavilion Beach Park. We saw a large mansion on the green, but it wasn’t familiar to me. I suspect that Iniki got the old mansion too, and what we were seeing was a reconstruction of it. We retraced our route back to Kapaa.
We had a little down time to rest and get ready to head out once again for Poipu. We had reservations at the Beach House Restaurant for dinner. Anne recommended that we eat there so we could also see a great Poipu sunset. She also suggested that we have a mai tai on the huge outside veranda, at the Hyatt, on Shipwreck Beach. While our reservation at the restaurant was for 6:30. We left Kapaa at 4:30 for Poipu, to allow plenty of time to savor the beach and our mai tai’s. We were fortunate to get a reservation, as Mary didn’t call until after we arrived on Wednesday. Dumb luck, they had just received a cancellation, and they squeezed us in. As we were pulling out of our Resort parking lot, we all started singing “On the Road Again”. I wish that I had taken my Willie Nelson CD of the song to play in the car.
The mai tais were great, the dinner was great, and the sunset was great. One couldn’t ask for more than that. While I was tired at the end of our perfect day, as my Mother used to say, “It is a good tired”.
Today, is Saturday. We are heading back to Poipu this morning, for snorkeling and visiting Spouting Horn and Koloa. I hadn’t visited Spouting Horn since we left Kauai in 1962. Back then, we parked at the side of the road and watched the “spouting“. Today, there is a parking lot, and many vendors’ canopy’s - selling everything from jewelry to T-shirts. I wonder where some of the shell necklaces and earrings come from? For there is a State law of “what you find in Hawaii, stays in Hawaii”. There were more people browsing among the shops than there were people watching the spouting! I was disappointed with the height of the “spouting” - perhaps it was low tide. Then, again, maybe my memory was influenced by seeing “Old Faithful” last year. Some of the viewers saw some sea turtles swimming around the lava rock. Try as I did, I couldn’t spot them.
The girls had a nice swim/snorkel at Brennecke’s Beach. This is right next to the pavilion/cove where we used to “splash.” I remember one Christmas when we were all wading in the cove, and the water and air temperatures were the same - 71 degrees! An added attraction were a couple of Monk Seal visitors lounging peacefully on the beach. They are a critically endangered. (there are fewer Hawaiian -monk seals in the wild than there are giant pandas!). The monk seal species turned up 13-15 million years ago before Hawaii was! The life guards tried to give them some privacy by cordoning them off with yellow tape.
Next, we drove a few miles to Koloa. This village is known for McBride Sugar Mill which was the first sugar plantation in Hawaii (1835). Today, a portion of the old mill is now a museum, as the plantation has been closed, along with the other plantations on Kauai. I don’t think there are any plantations still operating in Hawaii. Pineapple has had the same fate, There were 26 sugar plantations operating back in 1958, of which C. Brewer owned half. The annual production of raw sugar in the Islands (97 % pure - C& H Sugar removed the other 3% of molasses and impurities.) was a million tons a year! It became infeasible to continue operating the two agricultural industries. Pineapple and Sugar could be produced cheaper by others in the world. It is sad to drive by the fallow lands that I remember full of green-living plants. Some of the land was converted to macadamia nut and coffee trees. (We drove by the Kauai Coffee plantation every time we were near Lihue.) A lot of the acreage was used for building houses, shopping centers and hotels.
I made the mistake of mentioning the small -warm -coconut pies that we used to buy at the Chinese grocery in Koloa. They were delicious and wanted to experience that wonderful taste again. We got all these bum steers on where we might find the pies. We made many stops trying to track them down. I don’t think there is anyone alive who remembers the individual pies. I think those giving us directions, were confusing them with cocoanut- cream pies. After we returned to Fairfield, I asked Anne (who has a very good memory) if she remembered them. She said, “Of course. Mother used to cut them in half and we shared.” I think the problem was probably because Anne called them “turnovers” (their correct name), rather than pies. Too, how many people are still in the area fifty years later?
It is Sunday and time is zipping by. Today we are heading for Waimea Canyon, Kokee and the Kalahau Lookout. First we will stop at Holy Cross Church in Kalaheo - our last parish when we lived in the Islands. Mary called the church and found that Mass was at 0945. So, we planned to attend on the way to Waimea Canyon. I am glad that we did. Even though it was a new church building, it was in the same location. The school that Anne and Mary attended for a couple of years, is still there. I assume that Iniki destroyed the church building that I was familiar with.
When we went there 50 years ago, the women sat on one side of the church, and the men (who weren’t outside “talking stories”) sat on the other side - a strange custom! Now, the modern church is “in the round”, with mixed seating, after Vatican II. A friendly lady put a shell lei around our necks as we entered. What a nice welcome! After Mass, the young priest invited all travelers to come up and stand in front of the altar for his “safe return” Blessing” - Hawaiian friendliness in action!
Afterwards we were on our way to Hanapepe for breakfast at the “Green Garden” restaurant. One family used to eat there occasionally, even though we preferred Mike’s Café nearby. Today, it is just “Open” on weekends, as the owner-operator works in Lihue during the week. We also, bought a few of their papayas. I had a piece for breakfast every morning and they were as delicious - just as I remembered them. (The girls also bought some local Kapaa bananas at Safeway, and they were very sweet and delicious.)
We left the Kaumualli Highway (#50) and turned on to Kokee Road (#552), and started up the grade to Waimea State Park. Had we continued on the highway, we would have ended up in a few miles at Barking Sands, home of the Pacific Missile Range Facility. I read in the Garden Island paper where they are still talking about continuing this road around the northern end of the island to Highway 560 at Haena. Then, you would be able to drive completely around the Island! They were talking about this 50 years ago. It will never happen - unless they can get a lot of money from a future TARP fund. I would hate to have the responsibility to make a cost estimate. It is very hard to just fathom the idea. How would you justify it - by making it more convenient for a few tourists to navigate the Island?
The girls got out and viewed the splendorous Waimea Canyon. They didn’t see any of the white- mountain sheep. Then, we continued on to Kokee State Park. This is a huge green meadow. We used to enjoy a picnic here with Barbara and Don Brandt, who now live in Hilo, on the Big Island.
Next, on to the Kalalau Lookout. What a bum road. Had to drive slowly in low gear and then couldn’t dodge all the pot holes. If Hertz knew that we were mistreating their vehicle (and ourselves) in such a manner, there would have been a sur-charge. While I had been to the “Lookout” a few times, I only remember it being clear once or twice. (That’s why the helicopters do such a good business!) But, the view of the Napali Coast and the Pacific Ocean is tremendous when clear - well worth the extra effort of getting there. Today, it was socked in as per usual - a big disappointment! But, an off-set - the bougainvillea in the area are tremendous! An uneventful ride down the mountain and back up the south-west coast to Kapaa.
Today, must be Monday! The “wash” is drying on the clothes lines in the back yards. The multi-colored garments are waving in the breeze - like Hawaiian flags. We got started at our magic time - 0930. The car thermometer says 77 degrees. (You can’t beat this!) The odometer says that we have covered 337 miles. Gas at the 76 station is posted at $3.58.
We drove to the Wailua Falls, part of Wailua River Park. We turned to the right off #56, between Kapaa and Lihue, and drove about five miles on Maalo Road, back to the Falls area. Naturally, the large Waimea River feeds these Falls. I never realized that the Falls were so close to the popular Fern Grotto. I was surprised to read that Kauai is the only island in the Hawaiian chain, to have navigable rivers. While driving back to the Falls, we came upon a large pasture area with many horses, colts and mules. This must be the foaling season as there were quite a few little ones tagging along behind their Mothers. I didn’t think that Joan would pass this up. Sure enough, she pulled off to the left side of the road and parked near the fence. I don’t think that we were the first ones to stop there. The animals were grazing when we first saw them. But, after they spotted us by the fence, they all sauntered over to be hand fed!
I was surprised to find vendors parked at the Falls. Not only were they parked, there, but they took up the first four prime -parking spots! The first guy was working from the back of his pick-up making small baskets from cocoanut palm reeds. He was quite skilled. Mary and Joan bought one of his (green) baskets. The guy parked next to him was selling shell and bead jewelry (which he supposedly made), from the back of his pick-up. While the girls looked at his wares, I don’t think they were comfortable with the authenticity, quality or prices. The next two parking spots were occupied by women and their cars. I don’t remember what they were peddling. We had a good view of the twin falls - about our level, and not too far away. Quite a way down to the bottom, I could see some people playing in the pool of water from the falls.
After seeing the Falls. We headed for Rice Street in Lihue, for our Saimin “fix”. I used to go to a little café in Hanapepe for saimin when we lived here. But, when we had lunch at the bakery there the other day, I didn’t see it. Funny, how things change in 50 years! We enjoyed our different lunch. While the café’ was small, it was full. When people would leave, it wasn’t long before they were replaced by newcomers. We sat at the counter - on small stools which weren’t bolted to the floor. While they weren’t too safe, they were practical, and were part of the interesting atmosphere. Three middle-aged ladies staffed the facility - one cooking and dishing up in the small kitchen - and the other two serving as fast as she prepared the noodle combinations. So, between all of us, we kept them busy. The overhead fans didn’t quite provide enough cool air.
We were in the area of the Nawiliwili port, so we drove around the harbor area. We wanted to see where our car and furniture was loaded on to the Matson freighter, when we returned to the Mainland - and Vallejo - in 1962. Our furnishings left from here because the Port is the closest to Kalaheo. When our things were in-bound from Antioch in 1958, they arrived and were off-loaded at Port Allen, which is closer to Kaumakani.
It was only about a half hour drive to Poipu. We wanted to see Spouting Horn, and the girls wanted to snorkel at Brennecke’s Beach. This was alongside the cove where we used to go. We stopped first at the Spouting Horn parking lot. The last time that I was here was about 50 years ago. At that time, we just parked along the side of the road to watch the “spouting”. There was a lot of exposed lava rock and we had the place to ourselves. There was higher spouting back then.
Today, besides the large parking area, there are a string of tented shops leading down to the spouting area. The vendors are selling everything from jewelry to sweat shirts. I wonder where some of the shell necklaces and earrings come from. For, there is a state policy of “what you find in Hawaii, stays in Hawaii.” The car thermometer, in Poipu, says 86 degrees.
We stopped a couple of times to pick up real estate flyers touting beach-front rentals or “For Sales”. I sat in a covered picnic area “guarding” purses and clothes while the girls snorkeled.
We had a nice lunch at a cozy restaurant in nearby Koloa. We walked through a few shops, before heading on another “wild goose chase” looking for my “cocoanut pies”, but to no avail.
Back to Kapaa and the Outrigger. The girls went down to the pool and the beach, while I read the Garden Island and the Honolulu Advertiser. About this time, the Honolulu Star Bulletin (the afternoon paper) bought the Advertiser. Their merger resulted in a loss of 300 newspaper jobs!
Monday night, the girls went out for an Italian dinner next door to Bobby V’s Italian restaurant Pizzeria. I was content to stay behind and dined on the remainder of my saimin lunch, and a piece of cocoanut crème pie. I looked forward to breakfast every morning on the lanai, watching the workers below, sprucing up the grounds. How about my menu: papaya, guava juice and cold cereal topped with a very sweet and juicy banana from a local Kapaa tree? What a way to go!
During the week, we passed the former Cocoanut Palms complex on the Wailua River many times. It was ruined by Iniki in 1992. Apparently, the owners didn’t have any insurance, or resources to repair/rebuild it. It sits on such prime property, and is an eyesore. It is extra depressing for me because Marie and I used to go there quite often, for dinner, the lighting of the torches, and entertainment. Now, each time that we pass by, I am overwhelmed by sadness recalling my great memories of 50 years ago.
The girls went next door each morning to Marie’s bakery for their coffee. During their visits their conversation got around to me and Olokele. Marie told them that Ruth Cassel still lived on a farm in Waimea. She said we would remember each other. When they told me, I certainly remembered Ruth! How could I forget? I remembered her for her beauty and friendliness. Even though she was a haole’, she had that Hawaiian friendliness and graciousness. The Cassels had five kids as we did - four boys and a girl. I worked with her husband, Jim, on the plantation. He was Olokele’s Agriculturist. Both of them were from Iowa, having arrived a few months before we did. They were both musicians - Ruth played the piano, and gave lessons to the plantation kids. Jim played the trombone.
Tuesday turned out to be a very interesting - but a long day!
Early in the morning, Mary called Ruth to see if we could get together later on. Ruth said that she had organ practice in the morning. So she invited us to her house in Waimea that afternoon, for cold drinks
and pu-pu’s. We settled for 4:30.
We left Kapaa about 10, heading for the Kauai Museum in Lihue. I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the museum. The entry fee was $10 ($8 for me, a Senior, and Kamaaina’s), but the experience was well worth the price of admission. Too, the ticket is valid for several days as there is too much to see during a single visit - especially, if you also visit their very nice gift shop It is strange. The Museum was established in 1960, but I had never been there. The Museum building was dedicated to Albert Spencer Wilcox.
We would have liked to take the guided tour, but no docent. She said that no one was there at 10, so he went home! I enjoyed their great sea shell and wooden bowl collections on the main floor. The building is not ADA friendly, having no elevators. I did climb many stairs to get to the second level, as I wanted to see the sugar plantation exhibit. I found that Olokele Sugar Company was started in 1941, and it was in business for 53 years - until Gay & Robinson bought them in 1994. The exhibit mentioned that the plantation built a 200 home complex at nearby Kaumakani to house the hourly-paid workers. The salaried employees were housed in nice houses on the main street, and the street behind. I would have liked to have seen the Textile festival exhibit of Hawaiian quilts, but that meant walking up more stairs, so I passed.
Back to our condo for some respite and a quick turn around to visit Ruth in Wamea. Afterwards, Mary had made reservations at the very nice Gaylord restaurant - between Lihue and the Kauai Community College,
“On the Road Again”. This time to Waimea to visit Ruth Cassel. It took us a little over an hour for the drive from Kapaa to Waimea. There was quite a bit of traffic, and we allowed only an hour. The narrow -bumpy road (with numerous barking dogs along the way, was as Ruth described it to Mary. Ruth was a very pleasant and gracious hostess. It felt good to see her once again. She offered our choice of beaucoup drinks. She also had prepared some delicious cheese and cracker snacks. Ruth gave us a tour of her charming home, and explained many photos of her picture collection.
Joan had purchased a booklet at the Museum - “NA PUA O KOKEE” - a Field guide to the Native Flowering Plants of Northwestern Kauai”. The author was Katie Cassel. Joan asked Ruth if Katie was any relation. Ruth said that she was her daughter-in-law. Then, Ruth brought out a copies of Katie’s book and gave one to each of us. It wasn’t much longer, when a car pulled up and a young lady climbed the stairs. It was Katie! What a small world. She signed each of our copies of her book.
Then Ruth gave us a walking tour of her farm - about 4 acres overall. She pointed out banana, lilikoi, mango, papaya and monkey pod trees. I asked her about the Waimea hospital (where Joan and Sue were born), and Ruth said that it hadn’t been torn down and was still there. So, we stopped by and took pictures on our way back.
The time for our dinner reservation at Gaylords kept creeping up. Mary called the restaurant twice to reserve a later time. Fortunately they weren’t to busy so they accommodated us. We finally arrived at the restaurant about 8:30 for our original 6:30 reservation. Gaylords is located within the Kilohana Estate, on the outskirts of Lihue. The mansion was established in 1935, but I don’t recall seeing it when we lived here. It was the home of Ethel and Gaylord Wilcox - an old Island family.
We were the only patrons still in the restaurant - except for a wedding party in the private dining room. The girls sensed some hostility in the waiter - probably because he was held over to serve us. (I didn’t sense this attitude.). At the Gaylord menu prices, It was worth their wait for us. While tiring, it was a very memorable day!
This morning (Wednesday, June 9, 2010) is “get-away” day - we return to San Francisco. Our direct (we hope so!) United Flight #62 is scheduled to depart from Lihue at 1:15P. What amazes me is how the four of us were dedicated to being “on time”. None of us wanted to be accused of lagging. Before we checked out from The Outrigger, Joan went on line and printed our boarding passes, and prepaid the $23 for checking each of our bags. Only Mary, whose bag was bumping the 50 pound maximum, got her money’s worth. But, we shouldn’t comment because Mary very nicely volunteered to include some of our stuff in her large suitcase.
Joan left us, and our luggage, off - right in front - near the Baggage Agricultural Inspection Station, and returned our rental car to Hertz. We had a couple of hours wait before departure. But, I’d rather sit at the airport and have a leisurely check-in, than sit back at the hotel and then scramble to make it on time.
Our equipment was a Boeing 757 twin engine plane - the same type United used when we flew over. The same crew had been aboard this same plane, inbound from San Francisco, earlier this noon. The quick turn-around makes economical sense. I can remember back when a passenger plane needed four engines in order to be certified for over-water flights. Today, with these huge powerful jet engines, two exceed the power of four. The Boeing 757 can still fly using a single engine!
It is hard to believe how large the Lihue airport is today. Fifty years ago, when I was flying inter-island on business, the terminal was just a small building - housing the Hawaiian and the Aloha Airlines ticket offices, and a small café`. The turbo-prop operations were small - the ground crew would roll out stairs to the plane, to load and unload passengers. I remember once when I forgot my ticket to Honolulu. When boarding, I explained it to the Flight attendant. She said, “That’s O.K. Just mail it in after you return!” How about that for the Aloha Spirit?
We were number one for take-off. Wheels were retracted at 1:19P after a 25 second take-off run. An uneventful flight, flying at 34,000 feet. We were scheduled to get in at 2125, but the Captain said that we would be arriving about 30 minutes early. He hadn’t any more than said this, when we started a flat 360 degree turn to the right. We flew this pattern for about a half hour. The only redeeming feature was almost a continuous view of the beautiful sunset! The Captain said that the airport was socked in, and we were “holding” waiting for the fog to lift. Shortly, afterwards he came back on the PA and said that we were running low on fuel, and Approach Control was diverting us to an alternate airport - (San Jose). In all my piloting during WWII, and during the Korean War, I was diverted from landing at Mather Field twice - because the weather was below landing minimums - for overnight stays at Travis and Merced. The pilot started his letdown at 8:30P.
Instead of a straight - in approach to San Jose, we zigzagged over the water to take our turn in the trail of planes on their final approach. Instead of landing at SFO 30 minutes early, we landed in San Jose an hour and a half late. We spent 15 minutes taxiing to a remote cargo area to be re-fueled. When refueling was completed, the Captain told us that we would head to a Gate, and those that wanted to disembark in San Jose, were welcome to do so. Then, we would be off to SFO. The next thing they said was that we would NOT be heading to a Gate, but would be heading directly for SFO. I thought it was strange that they would re-fuel the aircraft with all of us aboard. It doesn’t seem like a very safe practice. I wonder if they actually did refuel? We left the cargo area at 10:40P
Mary called Stan, our air porter service, from San Jose, and told him not to wait for us. Stan thanked her. He said he had a 5:30 pick-up for the next morning. We took off for SFO. I thought that the pilot would just leave the wheels and flaps down for the short run up Highway 101. The pilot had just re-tracked them, when the Flight Attendant said, “Prepare for landing! . It was a routine departure. But, it seemed that we were flying just above the stalling speed, to jockey for position on the final approach. An uneventful landing in San Francisco about 11:30 - two and a half hours late! If this were a Southwest flight, the passengers would have clapped!
We collected our luggage at the carousel, and found some chairs to decide on Plan B. Mary called Jason and asked him if he would pick us up. He did his Boy scout good Turn and agreed. Joan and Sue went up to the upper level, to Subway and got sandwiches for us. Jason arrived at about 1:15, and I arrived back at Quail Creek at 2:30.
Things that I miss most about Kauai:
- Seeing the beautiful hibiscus bushes at the Outrigger - the first thing in the morning, and the last thing at night.
- Looking at the ocean from our lanai during my breakfast.
- Experiencing the natural beauty of Kauai all around me.
-Feeling the warm -trade winds on my face.
-Encountering the friendly local people.
-The slower pace of Hawaiian life.
“Every now and then go away, have a little relaxation; for when you come back to your work, your judgment will be surer. To remain constantly at work will cause you to lose power of judgment. When you go some distance away, then your work appears smaller, and more of it can be taken in at a glance, so a lack of harmony, or proportion is more readily seen.”
- Leonardo da Vinci ( from the booklet. “The Tao of Dad”, by Tracy Gold.)
Ray L’Amoreaux
July 3, 2010.
Saturday, July 3, 2010
HAWAIIAN MONK SEALS
MONK SEAL
My three daughters and I recently spent a week on Kauai. During the week, they wanted to snorkel at Brennecke’s Beach at Poipu. They pointed out two Monk Seals nearby sunning themselves on the beach. I noticed that the life guards respected their privacy by setting up a perimeter of four poles around them. At the top of the poles they fastened the yellow -crime scene- ribbon. I wondered why they had to do this. Common sense would dictate to leave them alone. But, there are nuts out there who lack common sense, and respect for nature, and harm them - even though they are protected as critically endangered.
I have always liked seals, but I can’t explain why. Probably because they are so docile and graceful. My daughter picked up a tourist publication. “101 Things to Do- Kauai” at the Outrigger Resort where we were staying, It is an excellent publication, with suggestions of things to do and see. On page 30, there is an excellent article on “The Monk Seal Guardians.” I think that you will enjoy reading it, so have copied it here. After reading this, you will never see a seal the same again!
“Monk Seal Guardians.”
“Hawaiian monk seals found the Hawaiian Islands well before human contact. They showed up 13 to 15 million years ago, well before the Big Island exploded from the sea, or ancient Hawaiians came to settle the land. Now, critically endangered, there are fewer Hawaiian monk seals in the wild than there are giant pandas! But, while pandas are celebrities, Monk seals can’t get off the B-List!
An Elephant monk seal, with a talent for grabbing headlines has done a lot to focus public attention on the plight of these ancient, seven foot, 400-600 pound marine mammals.
KP2 was born on a Kauai beach in May 2008. His mother categorically rejected him. Had he not been spotted by a passerby and turned over to NOAA’s Marine Mammal Response team, he would have died. The tiny pup was transported to Oahu and raised by the marine mammal team. When he was old enough to fend for himself, he was released into waters off Molokai.
Now, thoroughly acclimated to human contact, KP2 wasn’t interested in the solitary life preferred by most monk seals. So, he set off in search of human contact.. He found it at Kaunakakai Wharf on Molokai’s southern shore where there were plenty of humans to play with.
Soon, the seal had attracted an enthusiastic fan club, and the press had discovered a “Rock” star with whiskers and fins, abandoned by his mother and belonging to a tribe that is nearly extinct. The Wall Street Journal called KP2 a “people person”, and marine researchers started to worry as he grew and acted like a 600 pound seal, he may unintentionally harm his new friends.
So, NOAA intervened and returned KP2 to the wild. That didn’t work. The undaunted seal simply swam back to Kaunakakai Wharf. That didn’t work either. NOAA finally took him back to Oahu where he was placed in captivity.
All the while, the press followed the monk seal’s escapades, his celebrity growing with each headline. Eventually, it was determined that KP2 had cataracts and had to be moved to California for surgery. His Molokai friends, who had loudly protested his removal from the island, came to Oahu to say a sad Aloha!
Today, the endangered Hawaiian monk seal population has it’s poster child - and none too soon.
Over the pat 50 years, the Hawaiian monk seal population has fallen more than 60 percent to a level just over a 1,000 animals! About 90 percent of them are located in the uninhabited Northwest Hawaiian Islands. The remainder resides in the main islands.
A small monk seal colony has been established on Kauai and Niihau. Numbering some 30 to 40 seals, it is the largest population in the main islands. The seals are monitored by volunteers from the Kauai Monk Seal Watch Program. So, when you come across shoreline cordoned off by yellow tape barriers, you’ll know a seal has hauled up and volunteers are at work.
Seals usually land on the beach to rest, or to care for their young. It’s not unusual to see a pup, but keep your distance. Never pass between a seal and the shoreline. When mama seals feel threatened, on the shore or in the water, they have been known to attack. A Maha’ulepu Beach mama did just that late last year.
In another incident, the community was outraged, when two seals, one pregnant, were murdered. One shooter has been prosecuted. A significant reward has been raised for information leading to the arrest of the other.”
RCL - 7/3/10.
My three daughters and I recently spent a week on Kauai. During the week, they wanted to snorkel at Brennecke’s Beach at Poipu. They pointed out two Monk Seals nearby sunning themselves on the beach. I noticed that the life guards respected their privacy by setting up a perimeter of four poles around them. At the top of the poles they fastened the yellow -crime scene- ribbon. I wondered why they had to do this. Common sense would dictate to leave them alone. But, there are nuts out there who lack common sense, and respect for nature, and harm them - even though they are protected as critically endangered.
I have always liked seals, but I can’t explain why. Probably because they are so docile and graceful. My daughter picked up a tourist publication. “101 Things to Do- Kauai” at the Outrigger Resort where we were staying, It is an excellent publication, with suggestions of things to do and see. On page 30, there is an excellent article on “The Monk Seal Guardians.” I think that you will enjoy reading it, so have copied it here. After reading this, you will never see a seal the same again!
“Monk Seal Guardians.”
“Hawaiian monk seals found the Hawaiian Islands well before human contact. They showed up 13 to 15 million years ago, well before the Big Island exploded from the sea, or ancient Hawaiians came to settle the land. Now, critically endangered, there are fewer Hawaiian monk seals in the wild than there are giant pandas! But, while pandas are celebrities, Monk seals can’t get off the B-List!
An Elephant monk seal, with a talent for grabbing headlines has done a lot to focus public attention on the plight of these ancient, seven foot, 400-600 pound marine mammals.
KP2 was born on a Kauai beach in May 2008. His mother categorically rejected him. Had he not been spotted by a passerby and turned over to NOAA’s Marine Mammal Response team, he would have died. The tiny pup was transported to Oahu and raised by the marine mammal team. When he was old enough to fend for himself, he was released into waters off Molokai.
Now, thoroughly acclimated to human contact, KP2 wasn’t interested in the solitary life preferred by most monk seals. So, he set off in search of human contact.. He found it at Kaunakakai Wharf on Molokai’s southern shore where there were plenty of humans to play with.
Soon, the seal had attracted an enthusiastic fan club, and the press had discovered a “Rock” star with whiskers and fins, abandoned by his mother and belonging to a tribe that is nearly extinct. The Wall Street Journal called KP2 a “people person”, and marine researchers started to worry as he grew and acted like a 600 pound seal, he may unintentionally harm his new friends.
So, NOAA intervened and returned KP2 to the wild. That didn’t work. The undaunted seal simply swam back to Kaunakakai Wharf. That didn’t work either. NOAA finally took him back to Oahu where he was placed in captivity.
All the while, the press followed the monk seal’s escapades, his celebrity growing with each headline. Eventually, it was determined that KP2 had cataracts and had to be moved to California for surgery. His Molokai friends, who had loudly protested his removal from the island, came to Oahu to say a sad Aloha!
Today, the endangered Hawaiian monk seal population has it’s poster child - and none too soon.
Over the pat 50 years, the Hawaiian monk seal population has fallen more than 60 percent to a level just over a 1,000 animals! About 90 percent of them are located in the uninhabited Northwest Hawaiian Islands. The remainder resides in the main islands.
A small monk seal colony has been established on Kauai and Niihau. Numbering some 30 to 40 seals, it is the largest population in the main islands. The seals are monitored by volunteers from the Kauai Monk Seal Watch Program. So, when you come across shoreline cordoned off by yellow tape barriers, you’ll know a seal has hauled up and volunteers are at work.
Seals usually land on the beach to rest, or to care for their young. It’s not unusual to see a pup, but keep your distance. Never pass between a seal and the shoreline. When mama seals feel threatened, on the shore or in the water, they have been known to attack. A Maha’ulepu Beach mama did just that late last year.
In another incident, the community was outraged, when two seals, one pregnant, were murdered. One shooter has been prosecuted. A significant reward has been raised for information leading to the arrest of the other.”
RCL - 7/3/10.
Friday, July 2, 2010
KAUAI )cont.)
restaurant was for 6:30. We left Kapaa at 4:30 for Poipu, to allow plenty of time to savor the beach and our mai tai’s. We were fortunate to get a reservation, as Mary didn’t call until after we arrived on Wednesday. Dumb luck, they had just received a cancellation, and they squeezed us in. As we were pulling out of our Resort parking lot, we all started singing “On the Road Again”. I wish that I had taken my Willie Nelson CD of the song to play in the car.
The mai tais were great, the dinner was great, and the sunset was great. One couldn’t ask for more than that. While I was tired at the end of our perfect day, as my Mother used to say, “It is a good tired”.
Today, is Saturday. We are heading back to Poipu this morning, for snorkeling and visiting Spouting Horn and Koloa. I hadn’t visited Spouting Horn since we left Kauai in 1962. Back then, we parked at the side of the road and watched the “spouting“. Today, there is a parking lot, and many vendors’ canopy’s - selling everything from jewelry to T-shirts. I wonder where some of the shell necklaces and earrings come from? For there is a State law of “what you find in Hawaii, stays in Hawaii”. There were more people browsing among the shops than there were people watching the spouting! I was disappointed with the height of the “spouting” - perhaps it was low tide. Then, again, maybe my memory
Then, again, maybe my memory was influenced by seeing “Old Faithful” last year.
The girls had a nice swim/snorkel at Brennecke’s Beach. This is right next to the pavilion/cove where we used to “splash.” I remember one Christmas when we were all wading in the cove, and the water and air temperatures were the same - 71 degrees!
Next, we drove a few miles to Koloa. This village is known for McBride Sugar Mill which was the first sugar plantation in Hawaii (1835). Today, a portion of the old mill is now a museum, as the plantation has been closed, along with the other plantations on Kauai. I don’t think there are any plantations still operating in Hawaii. Pineapple has had the same fate, There were 26 sugar plantations operating back in 1958, of which C. Brewer owned half. The annual production of raw sugar in the Islands (97 % pure - C& H Sugar removed
C& H Sugar removed the other 3% of molasses and impurities.) was a million tons a year!. It became infeasible to continue operating the two agricultural industries. Pineapple and Sugar could be produced cheaper by others in the world. It is sad to drive by the fallow lands that I remember full of green-living plants. Some of the land was converted to macadamia nut and coffee trees. (We drove by the Kauai Coffee plantation every time we were near Lihue.) A lot of the acreage was used for building houses, shopping centers and hotels.
I made the mistake of mentioning the small -warm -cocoanut pies that we used to buy at the Chinese grocery in Koloa. They were delicious and wanted to experience that wonderful taste again. We got all these bum steers on where we might find the pies. We made many stops trying to track them down. I don’t think there is anyone alive who remembers the individual pies. I think those giving us directions, were confusing them with cocoanut- cream pies. After we returned to Fairfield, I asked Anne (who has a very good memory) if she remembered them. She said, “Of course. Mother used to cut them in half and we shared.” I think the problem was probably because Anne called them “turnovers” (their correct name), rather than pies. Too, how many people are still in the area fifty years later?
It is Sunday and time is zipping by. Today we are heading for Waimea Canyon, Kokee and the Kalahau Lookout. First we will stop at Holy Cross Church in Kalaheo - our last parish when we lived in the Islands. Mary called the church and found that Mass was at 0945. So, we planned to attend on the way to Waimea Canyon. I am glad that we did. Even though it was a new church building, it was in the same location. The school that Anne and Mary attended for a couple of years, is still there. I assume that Iniki destroyed the church building that I was familiar with.
When we went there 50 years ago, the women sat on one side of the church, and the men (who weren’t outside “talking stories”) sat on the other side - a strange custom! Now, the modern church is “in the round”, with mixed seating, after Vatican II. A friendly lady put a shell lei around our necks as we entered. What a nice welcome! After Mass, the young priest invited all travelers to come up and stand in front of the altar for his “safe return” Blessing” - Hawaiian friendliness in action!
Afterwards we were on our way to Hanapepe for breakfast at the “Green Garden” restaurant. One family used to eat there occasionally, even though we preferred Mike’s Café nearby. Today, it is just “Open” on weekends, as the owner-operator works in Lihue during the week. We also, bought a few of their papayas. I had a piece for breakfast every morning and they were as delicious - just as I remembered them. (The girls also bought some local Kapaa bananas at Safeway, and they were very sweet and delicious.)
We left the Kaumualli Highway (#50) and turned on to Kokee Road (#552), and started up the grade to Waimea State Park. Had we continued on the highway, we would have ended up in a few miles at Barking Sands, home of the Pacific Missile Range Facility. I read in the Garden Island paper where they are still talking about continuing this road around the northern end of the island to Highway 560 at Haena. Then, you would be able to drive completely around the Island! They were talking about this 50 years ago. It will never happen - unless they can get a lot of money from a future TARP fund. I would hate to have the responsibility to make a cost estimate. It is very hard to just fathom the idea. How would you justify it - by making it more convenient for a few tourists to navigate the Island?
The girls got out and viewed the splendorous Waimea Canyon. They didn’t see any of the white- mountain sheep. Then, we continued on to Kokee State Park. This is a huge green meadow. We used to enjoy a picnic here with Barbara and Don Brandt, who now live in Hilo, on the Big Island.
Next, on to the Kalalau Lookout. What a bum road. Had to drive slowly in low gear and then couldn’t dodge all the pot holes. If Hertz knew that we were mistreating their vehicle (and ourselves) in such a manner, there would have been a sur-charge. While I had been to the “Lookout” a few times, I only remember it being clear once or twice. (That’s why the helicopters do such a good business!) But, the view of the Napali Coast and the Pacific Ocean is tremendous when clear - well worth the extra effort of getting there. Today, it was socked in as per usual - a big disappointment! But, an off-set - the bougainvillea in the area are tremendous! An uneventful ride down the mountain and back up the south-west coast to Kapaa.
Today, must be Monday! The “wash” is drying on the clothes lines in the back yards. The multi-colored garments are waving in the breeze - like Hawaiian flags. We got started at our magic time - 0930. The car thermometer says 77 degrees. (You can’t beat this!) The odometer says that we have covered 337 miles. Gas at the 76 station is posted at $3.58.
We drove to the Wailua Falls, part of Wailua River Park. We turned to the right off #56, between Kapaa and Lihue, and drove about five miles on Maalo Road, back to the Falls area. Naturally, the large Waimea River feeds these Falls. I never realized that the Falls were so close to the popular Fern Grotto. I was surprised to read that Kauai is the only island in the Hawaiian chain, to have navigable rivers. While driving back to the Falls, we came upon a large pasture area with many horses, colts and mules. This must be the foaling season as there were quite a few little ones tagging along behind their Mothers. I didn’t think that Joan would pass this up. Sure enough, she pulled off to the left side of the road and parked near the fence. I don’t think that we were the first ones to stop there. The animals were grazing when we first saw them. But, after they spotted us by the fence, they all sauntered over to be hand fed!
I was surprised to find vendors parked at the Falls. Not only were they parked, there, but they took up the first four prime -parking spots! The first guy was working from the back of his pick-up making small baskets from cocoanut palm reeds. He was quite skilled. Mary and Joan bought one of his (green) baskets. The guy parked next to him was selling shell and bead jewelry (which he supposedly made), from the back of his pick-up. While the girls looked at his wares, I don’t think they were comfortable with the authenticity, quality or prices. The next two parking spots were occupied by women and their cars. I don’t remember what they were peddling. We had a good view of the twin falls - about our level, and not too far away. Quite a way down to the bottom, I could see some people playing in the pool of water from the falls.
After seeing the Falls. We headed for Rice Street in Lihue, for our Saimin “fix”. I used to go to a little café in Hanapepe for saimin when we lived here. But, when we had lunch at the bakery there the other day, I didn’t see it. Funny, how things change in 50 years! We enjoyed our different lunch. While the café’ was small, it was full. When people would leave, it wasn’t long before they were replaced by newcomers. We sat at the counter - on small stools which weren’t bolted to the floor. While they weren’t too safe, they were practical, and were part of the interesting atmosphere. Three middle-aged ladies staffed the facility - one cooking and dishing up in the small kitchen - and the other two serving as fast as she prepared the noodle combinations. So, between all of us, we kept them busy. The overhead fans didn’t quite provide enough cool air.
We were in the area of the Nawiliwili port, so we drove around the harbor area. We wanted to see where our car and furniture was loaded on to the Matson freighter, when we returned to the Mainland - and Vallejo - in 1962. Our furnishings left from here because the Port is the closest to Kalaheo. When our things were in-bound from Antioch in 1958, they arrived and were off-loaded at Port Allen, which is closer to Kaumakani.
It was only about a half hour drive to Poipu. We wanted to see Spouting Horn, and the girls wanted to snorkel at Brennecke’s Beach. This was alongside the cove where we used to go. We stopped first at the Spouting Horn parking lot. The last time that I was here was about 50 years ago. At that time, we just parked along the side of the road to watch the “spouting”. There was a lot of exposed lava rock and we had the place to ourselves. There was higher spouting back then.
Today, besides the large parking area, there are a string of tented shops leading down to the spouting area. The vendors are selling everything from jewelry to sweat shirts. I wonder where some of the shell necklaces and earrings come from. For, there is a state policy of “what you find in Hawaii, stays in Hawaii.” The car thermometer, in Poipu, says 86 degrees.
We stopped a couple of times to pick up real estate flyers touting beach-front rentals or “For Sales”. I sat in a covered picnic area “guarding” purses and clothes while the girls snorkeled.
We had a nice lunch at a cozy restaurant in nearby Koloa. We walked through a few shops, before heading on another “wild goose chase” looking for my “cocoanut pies”, but to no avail.
Back to Kapaa and the Outrigger. The girls went down to the pool and the beach, while I read the Garden Island and the Honolulu Advertiser. About this time, the Honolulu Star Bulletin (the afternoon paper) bought the Advertiser. Their merger resulted in a loss of 300 newspaper jobs!
Monday night, the girls went out for an Italian dinner. I was content to stay behind and dined on the remainder of my saimin lunch, and a piece of cocoanut crème pie. I looked forward to breakfast every morning on the lanai, watching the workers below, sprucing up the grounds. How about my menu: papaya, guava juice and cold cereal topped with a very sweet and juicy banana from a local Kapaa tree? What a way to go!
During the week, we passed the former Cocoanut Palms complex on the Wailua River many times. It was ruined by Iniki in 1992. Apparently, the owners didn’t have any insurance, or resources to repair/rebuild it. It sits on such prime property, and is an eyesore. It is extra depressing for me because Marie and I used to go there quite often, for dinner, the lighting of the torches, and entertainment. Now, each time that we pass by, I am overwhelmed by sadness recalling my great memories of 50 years ago.
The girls went next door each morning to Marie’s bakery for their coffee. During their visits their conversation got around to me and Olokele. Marie told them that Ruth Cassel still lived on a farm in Waimea. She said we would remember each other. When they told me, I certainly remembered Ruth! How could I forget? I remembered her for her beauty and friendliness. Even though she was a haole’, she had that Hawaiian friendliness and graciousness. The Cassels had five kids as we did - four boys and a girl. I worked with her husband, Jim, on the plantation. He was Olokele’s Agriculturist. Both of them were from Iowa, having arrived a few months before we did. They were both musicians - Ruth played the piano, and gave lessons to the plantation kids. Jim played the trombone.
Tuesday turned out to be a very interesting - but a long day!
Early in the morning, Mary called Ruth to see if we could get together later on. Ruth said that she had organ practice in the morning. So
The mai tais were great, the dinner was great, and the sunset was great. One couldn’t ask for more than that. While I was tired at the end of our perfect day, as my Mother used to say, “It is a good tired”.
Today, is Saturday. We are heading back to Poipu this morning, for snorkeling and visiting Spouting Horn and Koloa. I hadn’t visited Spouting Horn since we left Kauai in 1962. Back then, we parked at the side of the road and watched the “spouting“. Today, there is a parking lot, and many vendors’ canopy’s - selling everything from jewelry to T-shirts. I wonder where some of the shell necklaces and earrings come from? For there is a State law of “what you find in Hawaii, stays in Hawaii”. There were more people browsing among the shops than there were people watching the spouting! I was disappointed with the height of the “spouting” - perhaps it was low tide. Then, again, maybe my memory
Then, again, maybe my memory was influenced by seeing “Old Faithful” last year.
The girls had a nice swim/snorkel at Brennecke’s Beach. This is right next to the pavilion/cove where we used to “splash.” I remember one Christmas when we were all wading in the cove, and the water and air temperatures were the same - 71 degrees!
Next, we drove a few miles to Koloa. This village is known for McBride Sugar Mill which was the first sugar plantation in Hawaii (1835). Today, a portion of the old mill is now a museum, as the plantation has been closed, along with the other plantations on Kauai. I don’t think there are any plantations still operating in Hawaii. Pineapple has had the same fate, There were 26 sugar plantations operating back in 1958, of which C. Brewer owned half. The annual production of raw sugar in the Islands (97 % pure - C& H Sugar removed
C& H Sugar removed the other 3% of molasses and impurities.) was a million tons a year!. It became infeasible to continue operating the two agricultural industries. Pineapple and Sugar could be produced cheaper by others in the world. It is sad to drive by the fallow lands that I remember full of green-living plants. Some of the land was converted to macadamia nut and coffee trees. (We drove by the Kauai Coffee plantation every time we were near Lihue.) A lot of the acreage was used for building houses, shopping centers and hotels.
I made the mistake of mentioning the small -warm -cocoanut pies that we used to buy at the Chinese grocery in Koloa. They were delicious and wanted to experience that wonderful taste again. We got all these bum steers on where we might find the pies. We made many stops trying to track them down. I don’t think there is anyone alive who remembers the individual pies. I think those giving us directions, were confusing them with cocoanut- cream pies. After we returned to Fairfield, I asked Anne (who has a very good memory) if she remembered them. She said, “Of course. Mother used to cut them in half and we shared.” I think the problem was probably because Anne called them “turnovers” (their correct name), rather than pies. Too, how many people are still in the area fifty years later?
It is Sunday and time is zipping by. Today we are heading for Waimea Canyon, Kokee and the Kalahau Lookout. First we will stop at Holy Cross Church in Kalaheo - our last parish when we lived in the Islands. Mary called the church and found that Mass was at 0945. So, we planned to attend on the way to Waimea Canyon. I am glad that we did. Even though it was a new church building, it was in the same location. The school that Anne and Mary attended for a couple of years, is still there. I assume that Iniki destroyed the church building that I was familiar with.
When we went there 50 years ago, the women sat on one side of the church, and the men (who weren’t outside “talking stories”) sat on the other side - a strange custom! Now, the modern church is “in the round”, with mixed seating, after Vatican II. A friendly lady put a shell lei around our necks as we entered. What a nice welcome! After Mass, the young priest invited all travelers to come up and stand in front of the altar for his “safe return” Blessing” - Hawaiian friendliness in action!
Afterwards we were on our way to Hanapepe for breakfast at the “Green Garden” restaurant. One family used to eat there occasionally, even though we preferred Mike’s Café nearby. Today, it is just “Open” on weekends, as the owner-operator works in Lihue during the week. We also, bought a few of their papayas. I had a piece for breakfast every morning and they were as delicious - just as I remembered them. (The girls also bought some local Kapaa bananas at Safeway, and they were very sweet and delicious.)
We left the Kaumualli Highway (#50) and turned on to Kokee Road (#552), and started up the grade to Waimea State Park. Had we continued on the highway, we would have ended up in a few miles at Barking Sands, home of the Pacific Missile Range Facility. I read in the Garden Island paper where they are still talking about continuing this road around the northern end of the island to Highway 560 at Haena. Then, you would be able to drive completely around the Island! They were talking about this 50 years ago. It will never happen - unless they can get a lot of money from a future TARP fund. I would hate to have the responsibility to make a cost estimate. It is very hard to just fathom the idea. How would you justify it - by making it more convenient for a few tourists to navigate the Island?
The girls got out and viewed the splendorous Waimea Canyon. They didn’t see any of the white- mountain sheep. Then, we continued on to Kokee State Park. This is a huge green meadow. We used to enjoy a picnic here with Barbara and Don Brandt, who now live in Hilo, on the Big Island.
Next, on to the Kalalau Lookout. What a bum road. Had to drive slowly in low gear and then couldn’t dodge all the pot holes. If Hertz knew that we were mistreating their vehicle (and ourselves) in such a manner, there would have been a sur-charge. While I had been to the “Lookout” a few times, I only remember it being clear once or twice. (That’s why the helicopters do such a good business!) But, the view of the Napali Coast and the Pacific Ocean is tremendous when clear - well worth the extra effort of getting there. Today, it was socked in as per usual - a big disappointment! But, an off-set - the bougainvillea in the area are tremendous! An uneventful ride down the mountain and back up the south-west coast to Kapaa.
Today, must be Monday! The “wash” is drying on the clothes lines in the back yards. The multi-colored garments are waving in the breeze - like Hawaiian flags. We got started at our magic time - 0930. The car thermometer says 77 degrees. (You can’t beat this!) The odometer says that we have covered 337 miles. Gas at the 76 station is posted at $3.58.
We drove to the Wailua Falls, part of Wailua River Park. We turned to the right off #56, between Kapaa and Lihue, and drove about five miles on Maalo Road, back to the Falls area. Naturally, the large Waimea River feeds these Falls. I never realized that the Falls were so close to the popular Fern Grotto. I was surprised to read that Kauai is the only island in the Hawaiian chain, to have navigable rivers. While driving back to the Falls, we came upon a large pasture area with many horses, colts and mules. This must be the foaling season as there were quite a few little ones tagging along behind their Mothers. I didn’t think that Joan would pass this up. Sure enough, she pulled off to the left side of the road and parked near the fence. I don’t think that we were the first ones to stop there. The animals were grazing when we first saw them. But, after they spotted us by the fence, they all sauntered over to be hand fed!
I was surprised to find vendors parked at the Falls. Not only were they parked, there, but they took up the first four prime -parking spots! The first guy was working from the back of his pick-up making small baskets from cocoanut palm reeds. He was quite skilled. Mary and Joan bought one of his (green) baskets. The guy parked next to him was selling shell and bead jewelry (which he supposedly made), from the back of his pick-up. While the girls looked at his wares, I don’t think they were comfortable with the authenticity, quality or prices. The next two parking spots were occupied by women and their cars. I don’t remember what they were peddling. We had a good view of the twin falls - about our level, and not too far away. Quite a way down to the bottom, I could see some people playing in the pool of water from the falls.
After seeing the Falls. We headed for Rice Street in Lihue, for our Saimin “fix”. I used to go to a little café in Hanapepe for saimin when we lived here. But, when we had lunch at the bakery there the other day, I didn’t see it. Funny, how things change in 50 years! We enjoyed our different lunch. While the café’ was small, it was full. When people would leave, it wasn’t long before they were replaced by newcomers. We sat at the counter - on small stools which weren’t bolted to the floor. While they weren’t too safe, they were practical, and were part of the interesting atmosphere. Three middle-aged ladies staffed the facility - one cooking and dishing up in the small kitchen - and the other two serving as fast as she prepared the noodle combinations. So, between all of us, we kept them busy. The overhead fans didn’t quite provide enough cool air.
We were in the area of the Nawiliwili port, so we drove around the harbor area. We wanted to see where our car and furniture was loaded on to the Matson freighter, when we returned to the Mainland - and Vallejo - in 1962. Our furnishings left from here because the Port is the closest to Kalaheo. When our things were in-bound from Antioch in 1958, they arrived and were off-loaded at Port Allen, which is closer to Kaumakani.
It was only about a half hour drive to Poipu. We wanted to see Spouting Horn, and the girls wanted to snorkel at Brennecke’s Beach. This was alongside the cove where we used to go. We stopped first at the Spouting Horn parking lot. The last time that I was here was about 50 years ago. At that time, we just parked along the side of the road to watch the “spouting”. There was a lot of exposed lava rock and we had the place to ourselves. There was higher spouting back then.
Today, besides the large parking area, there are a string of tented shops leading down to the spouting area. The vendors are selling everything from jewelry to sweat shirts. I wonder where some of the shell necklaces and earrings come from. For, there is a state policy of “what you find in Hawaii, stays in Hawaii.” The car thermometer, in Poipu, says 86 degrees.
We stopped a couple of times to pick up real estate flyers touting beach-front rentals or “For Sales”. I sat in a covered picnic area “guarding” purses and clothes while the girls snorkeled.
We had a nice lunch at a cozy restaurant in nearby Koloa. We walked through a few shops, before heading on another “wild goose chase” looking for my “cocoanut pies”, but to no avail.
Back to Kapaa and the Outrigger. The girls went down to the pool and the beach, while I read the Garden Island and the Honolulu Advertiser. About this time, the Honolulu Star Bulletin (the afternoon paper) bought the Advertiser. Their merger resulted in a loss of 300 newspaper jobs!
Monday night, the girls went out for an Italian dinner. I was content to stay behind and dined on the remainder of my saimin lunch, and a piece of cocoanut crème pie. I looked forward to breakfast every morning on the lanai, watching the workers below, sprucing up the grounds. How about my menu: papaya, guava juice and cold cereal topped with a very sweet and juicy banana from a local Kapaa tree? What a way to go!
During the week, we passed the former Cocoanut Palms complex on the Wailua River many times. It was ruined by Iniki in 1992. Apparently, the owners didn’t have any insurance, or resources to repair/rebuild it. It sits on such prime property, and is an eyesore. It is extra depressing for me because Marie and I used to go there quite often, for dinner, the lighting of the torches, and entertainment. Now, each time that we pass by, I am overwhelmed by sadness recalling my great memories of 50 years ago.
The girls went next door each morning to Marie’s bakery for their coffee. During their visits their conversation got around to me and Olokele. Marie told them that Ruth Cassel still lived on a farm in Waimea. She said we would remember each other. When they told me, I certainly remembered Ruth! How could I forget? I remembered her for her beauty and friendliness. Even though she was a haole’, she had that Hawaiian friendliness and graciousness. The Cassels had five kids as we did - four boys and a girl. I worked with her husband, Jim, on the plantation. He was Olokele’s Agriculturist. Both of them were from Iowa, having arrived a few months before we did. They were both musicians - Ruth played the piano, and gave lessons to the plantation kids. Jim played the trombone.
Tuesday turned out to be a very interesting - but a long day!
Early in the morning, Mary called Ruth to see if we could get together later on. Ruth said that she had organ practice in the morning. So
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